The Gibb River Road- Part 2

The Gibb River Road - the middle 5 nights.

Sunday 3rd - Thursday 7th September

Day 6/7/8- Gibb River Free Camp

We only did a short drive before deciding to check out the camping along the actual Gibb River, we’d camped here on our last trip but there was only a small amount of water left then, basically a big puddle. This time was different. Due to the bumper wet season and the floods earlier this year, the Gibb River was flowing. At the moment it is a sandy bottomed, paper bark lined, shallow creek with a few deeper sections. We found a spot in the sand overlooking the water, it was beautiful. The kids had so much fun building a dam and digging out sections of the river to make small pools and we all enjoyed relaxing in the cool water. It was such a nice spot, and it was free, so we ended up staying 3 nights. The kids found lots of interesting sparkly rocks so they spent their days alternating between ‘crystal hunting’, dam building, playing board and card games and enjoying the deep water up near the river crossing. The evenings cooled off so it was lovely sitting by the campfire looking up at the star filled sky each night. We’ve changed our routine (to fit in with WA time) so we are going to bed about 8pm then we’re up early (between 5.30 and 6am) as it is already completely light by then. 

The view from our camp down onto the sandy banks of the Gibb River.

Jackson digging the sand up to make a few deeper pools- we'd already moved all of those big rocks to make the dam. He got to work as soon as he got up in the morning- he loved it.

Relaxing in the water gushing over the road crossing- this was the deepest section of the river so we spent a bit of time swimming here.

Jackson in one of the 'pools' he dug out.

Cleaning some of the many cool rocks (many with little crystals in them) that he found along the edge of the river.

Some of the rock art just near where we camped.

Getting ready to watch the sunset after looking at the nearby rock art.

It was a stunning campsite (and even better as it was free!).

Day 9/10 – Mt Elizabeth Station

We pulled into Mt Elizabeth Station before lunch so we had the whole afternoon to begin exploring the property. We firstly took the easier 4wd track to Warla Gorge and were surprised to find a ‘beach’ with pure white sand going into a rocky river. We found a few deep sections and enjoyed a swim before exploring some of the rock pools. We were the only people there so it was so peaceful floating in the water looking at the old paperbarks lining the banks and watching the kites swoop by overhead. After leaving we headed to the ruins of the old homestead, where we wandered around looking at the rusted cars, old buildings (including an old thunderbox) and the cemetery. Nature was already trying to reclaim the place with the huge native mango trees beginning to engulf the small homestead and surrounding buildings. We drove back to camp just as the sun was setting and the air was finally cooling off. 

The next day we went to Wunnamurra Gorge with some friends we’d made. We had to drive together as they’d got a flat tyre the day before (on the track to Warla Gorge) and their spare was the wrong size. We gave them our spare to use until they could get a replacement (100kms further along the Gibb River Road) so we had to go in a convoy in case either of us got a puncture. It was a very rocky track through the property and we bumped along very slowly. In the end it took us about an hour to go 10kms!! We then had a 30 minute hike over the rocks to get to the top of the gorge but it was well worth it – the gorge was as spectacular as we remembered it to be. We spent several hours swimming then relaxing on the warm rocks when we got too cool. We also walked along the gorge to find some incredibly well preserved aboriginal art, but the highlight was definitely climbing up into the opening behind the waterfall. It was such an incredible experience to be standing behind the gushing water looking down the gorge.

We arrived back at camp mid afternoon ready to get our fresh washing off the clotheslines only to discover a bird (or birds) had used our freshly washed sheets as a toilet!! There was bird poo all over the sheets and it had dried hard in the hot sun, so I spent the rest of the afternoon scrubbing it off before having to rewash the sheets! Thankfully the hot air dried the sheets in record time so we still had fresh bedding that night.

We'd heard great reviews about the dinners at Mt Elizabeth so we’d booked in when we arrived (luckily as they ended up being booked out). We went up to the homestead about 5.30pm to enjoy a few drinks with fellow campers around the communal fire before heading into dinner- which ended up being one of the best meals we’ve ever had. They cooked us eye fillet steaks (their own beef which was incredible), homemade sausages, roast pumpkin and potato, and cauliflower & broccoli bake. The steak (which had been cooked to all our likings) literally melted in your mouth, it was so tasty. After dinner (and seconds) they then brought out black-forest cake with home made ice-cream- the kids eyes nearly popped out of their heads when their desserts arrived! Their excited reaction prompted one of the ladies who worked their to go and get them a second dessert when they’d finished eating their first – the kids could not believe their luck. Daniel also scored an apple crumble after his cake (I think they could sense how jealous he was of the kids’ second dessert!!). It was a thoroughly enjoyable evening and the perfect way to end a really fun few days at Mt Elizabeth Station.

Warla Gorge

The sand was so soft and fine the kids couldn't resist laying in it - Jackson even made a sand angel.

The ruins of the old Mt Elizabeth Station

One of the old station vehicles underneath some of the many huge native mango trees around the old station grounds.

Wunnamurra Gorge- there was a sandy bank in the middle that we all chilled out on.

You could climb up behind the waterfall which was a really awesome experience.

Some of the rock art we found along the gorge walls at Wunnamurra

The rocky track - it was a very slow and bumpy ride.

The kids and their first serve of dessert at our lovely dinner at Mt Elizabeth Station.

The Gibb River Rd - part 1

The Gibb River Road - the first 5 nights.

Tuesday 29th August - Saturday 2nd September

Day 1- El Questro Station

We didn’t arrive at El Questro until mid afternoon, after leaving Kununurra late. On the drive out we got to see firsthand the bushfire that had been burning through the area for the last week. A lot of the vegetation on the sides of the road was burnt, there was smoke billowing up from the ridges and we even saw some active fires just a few hundred meters in from the road. Emma Gorge was still closed as the fire came right into the gorge, so we had to skip it this time (we did in in 2015 so weren’t too upset to miss out).

After setting up we did the extremely dusty 4wd track to the Pigeon Hole lookout where we got to watch the sun set over the Pentecost River- it was beautiful, a lovely way to begin our time on the Gibb River Road.

You can see all the smoke on the horizon from the nearby fires that had already been burning for several days.

The view from the Pigeon Hole lookout over the Pentecost River.

An awesome shot from the drone showing the Pentecost River snaking around.

Day 2- El Questro Station

Today was Daniel’s birthday and he had chosen to do the walk to El Questro Gorge. After breakfast and presents we headed off to the start of the track- we had to do a long, deep river crossing to get there, but thankfully we only got a little bit of water in the doors. It was an absolutely stunning walk through the narrow palm and fern filled gorge, along the edge (and sometimes over) a creek with lots of deep pools and many small waterfalls. It was challenging though as most of the walk was up, around and over large boulders. At the creatively named ‘Halfway Pool’ we found the section of the walk everyone had been talking about – you had to swim across the pool then somehow get up a narrow section of slippery rock, with very few places to anchor your feet or grip your hands. We got some tips about the best way to get up, which was to get your back on one side of the rocks then your feet on the other and shimmy your way up. The kids and Daniel were fine but I found it rather difficult and I had my heart in my mouth the whole way up. After nearly ending up smashed against the rock when I slipped, I eventually made it to the top (with cheers from the crowd watching!). It certainly got the adrenaline pumping. We had another 2km boulder hopping before we made it to MacMicking Pool- a gorgeous little swimming hole and waterfall, which we had to ourselves for the first 10 minutes. After sitting in the waterfall for awhile and enjoying a swim in the refreshing water we began the walk back and had lunch on top of the Halfway Pool. We decided the easiest way to get down was to jump – the kids went first and Daniel passed all our gear down to them, then we just jumped off the rock into the pool below – so much easier!! The whole walk took us over 5 hours (including swims), with 3 hrs and 48 minutes of that spent walking and climbing over rocks- we were all pretty tired by the time we got back.

That afternoon we made the most of happy hour at the Swinging Arm Bar – the cold pale ales went down very well- before we had a delicious dinner and a cheesecake to celebrate Daniel’s 43^rd birthday.

The palm lined track at the start of the El Questro Gorge walk.

It was such a picturesque walk

One of the rocky sections we had to climb up

The gorgeous, crystal clear MacMicking pool and waterfall at the end.

We were lucky enough to have the waterfall to ourselves for the first 10 minutes or so.

Before we walked back down we had a snack. As Daniel and Jackson ate theirs, Emilia and I had a giggle at their boardshorts as they both had one leg riding higher than the other.

Jackson decided it was much more fun to wade through the water on the way back and when he came to this rock he made the most of the slippery moss- it turned the rock into a perfect slide.

We had to explain that these grasshoppers weren't having a piggyback but were actually mating- it was quite interesting to see although we did feel like we were impinging on their moment!

To get to the walking track you had to drive through the Pentecost River, which added another fun element to the day.

Birthday drinks and live music at the bar in El Questro Station.

Daniel requested cheesecake as his birthday cake (as you can see the kids were pretty excited by this choice too).

Day 3- El Questro Station

Today was spent walking along Amalia Gorge, another Grade 5 walk, though this was a lot shorter than the walk to El Questro Gorge. There were still a few challenging sections, including a spot where you had to hold onto a chain to get yourself around a high section of jutting out rock. The pool at the end was big and cold. Again we were lucky enough to get the whole pool to ourselves for around half an hour. It was so special being the only person floating in the cool, silky water, surrounded by the majestic red cliffs.

On the way in Emilia had spotted a snake, but by the time the rest of us got there to have a look it was gone. However on the way back we spotted it- it was a metre long olive python. We watched it for awhile as it slithered under and over some rocks until it was safely hidden.

On our way back to camp we stopped in at Zebedee Hot Springs and enjoyed soaking in the temperate rock pools, relaxing our tired muscles. That afternoon we just relaxed at camp while Jackson played with the new friends he’d made (there were heaps of families camped at El Questro who all seemed to have boys a similar age to Jackson).

The middle pool (Ochre Pool) on the walk to Amalia Gorge

The icy cold, but stunningly beautiful, Amalia falls and pool

This picture gives some perspective so you can see how high the rocky walls of the pool, it was so nice laying on my back in the water looking up at the stunning rocks. 

The snake Emilia spotted

Skimming rocks as we walked back along the creek.

Relaxing in a warm pool at Zeebedee Hot Springs

I nearly could have fallen asleep!

Day 4- Pentecost River Crossing

After a late checkout we stopped in at Amalia Gorge for one last swim on our way out of El Questro. We just went to the halfway pool, which was only a short 15 minute walk away. Only Jackson, Daniel and I went as Emilia was hiked out. We had a lovely swim whilst also watching many fish go on a feeding frenzy when a boy threw bits of apple into the water. There were some quite big fish. Daniel and Jackson brought their goggles and they both managed to find bracelets on the bottom of the pool – nothing exciting, but they were still happy with their finds!

We didn’t have any concrete plans about where we staying for the night, so when we pulled up to the Pentecost River crossing and saw people leaving a shady campsite right next to the river we decided to spent the night. Before they left they gave Daniel some tips about the best lure to use to catch barramundi so as soon as we got set up the boys were off to try their luck.

A few hours later they returned proudly displaying the catch. Daniel got two barramundi, though one was just a little under size. The one he kept was a good 75cm so he was pretty happy (he put it down to his ‘lucky bracelet’ – the one he’d found that morning that he actually wore fishing).

After a quick sunset rinse-off at the river crossing – while we keep a lookout for crocodiles- we had a delicious dinner of fresh barramundi. Once it was dark we could spot a few sets of eyes along the river- thankfully not too close to where we were sitting around our campfire! The moon looked amazing rising up over the distant ranges and it cast a beautiful glint of light on the river- it was a magical spot.

The barramundi Daniel caught - it was delicious.

                                            

Our great campspot right on the edge of the Pentecost River (you can also see us having a rinse off in the shallow water on the crossing- staying croc safe).

Sunset wade in the river crossing

Jackson and Daniel went fishing in the morning and found this incredible boab tree - apparently when the branches start to droop it means the trees are at least 1000 years old. Some of the branches on this one were nearly touching the ground so it must be very old.

Early morning fishing - the moon was still up.

Day 5- Durack River

The boys tried fishing again early in the morning but had no luck as the water temperature was still a bit cold for barramundi that early in the day. We left around 9am knowing that the road could take us awhile as we’d heard numerous reports of how bad it was after the Pentecost River crossing. It wasn’t too bad, but it also wasn’t too great. We did a few stops to check everything and thankfully most things, except the hinge on the oven door, were okay. We arrived at the Durack River about lunchtime and found a lovely spot up on the river’s edge where we decided to spend the night.

While the boys fished and put the nets in, Emilia and I played a few games and relaxed at camp. They didn’t have any luck with their rods, but we were hopeful that the nets might get us some cherubin by the morning. They ended up with 7 super sized cherabin - some of the biggest we've ever caught.

That evening we watched the sun set over the river then sat around the campfire admiring the stars.

Our campsite on the Durack River.

A few of the massive cherabin Jackson caught.