Abort Mission: Our failed attempt to climb Mt Sonder

Mt Sonder and Kings Canyon

Wednesday 25^th October

We were all keen to conquer the 15.8km hike up to the summit of Mt Sonder to enjoy the stunning views that we knew we would get from that height. At 1380m above sea level it is the highest point in the West MacDonnell Ranges, and the fourth highest peak in NT.

The night before we camped close by, on a ridge near Redbank Gorge, where the walk begins. We were looking forward to the sunset, which we knew would be spectacular from our vantage point, however the sky soon filled with clouds and the smoke haze thickened. Instead of a sunset we ended up being treated to a dazzling electrical storm over the ranges to the south. Some of the bolts of lightening were huge and completely lit up the sky. 

We were all in bed early so we could get up at 4.30am to make it to the first lookout by sunrise. We began hiking in the dark, with head torches, but soon the pre-dawn light was just enough for us to see our footing. We went as fast as we could manage, straight up the side of a rocky mountain, until we got to the saddle of the range. It was absolutely blowing a gale on the way up but because we were walking so fast, and going uphill, we were warm. Once we got to the top though we were hit with huge gusts of icy wind. The weather was totally unexpected, especially as it had been 38 degrees the day before. We were very underdressed and within minutes we were all shivering.

We walked on hoping to find a sheltered spot to have a snack. We reached the lookout and the view was amazing, but there was no respite from the wind. We walked on determinedly but after about another 500 meters we stopped and begrudgingly made the decision to abort our quest to reach the summit. Jackson hadn’t fully recovered from his illness, and we didn’t want to risk him getting sicker, nor any of us succumbing to the virus.

Although disappointed not to make it to the top, we still got to see an incredible sunrise and enjoy stunning views of the West MacDonnell Ranges. After warming up in the sun back at camp with coffees and hot chocolates we decided to head to Kings Canyon and climb that instead 😊.

Dinner at the Redbank Gorge Ridge campground - we didn't get much of a sunset but the lightening later on was just incredible.

One of the many bolts of lightning we got to see.

We'd already nearly made it to the saddle of the ridge before the dawn light began

It was an incredibly picturesque hike

Mt Sonder is the peak in the distance- about 4.5km hike from where we were.

Stopping for a quick photo- we didn't want to stop too long as it was so cold.

A quick snack in the howling wind before we decided to
'abort mission'!

Although I wanted to continue, my poor family were freezing!

The view on our way back down

Hiking back with the glowing sun behind us.

King Canyon

It took us about 2 hours to rattle our way along the Mereenie Loop (some sections were quite rough) to Kings Canyon, however it was definitely a very scenic route. I got a good laugh from some homemade speed signs. On the way into a sharp corner there was an old drum with the words ‘Liftem Up’ spray painted on, then when the corner ended another drum saying ‘Putem back down’. The locals certainly have a sense of humour!

We pulled into Watarrka National Park, and the nearly empty Kings Canyon carpark, just before 4pm and began the Rim Walk. It was the perfect time to do the walk, the heat was subsiding and the crowds had gone- we actually ended up only seeing one other person during the whole walk, and they were on the other side of the canyon. We all loved exploring the dome like rock formations, marvelling at the coloured sandstone edges of the canyon (especially the sections where huge chunks of rock had fallen) and enjoying the respite from the sun down in the palm filled crevices where water collects.

We’d completed the hike by 6pm so just drove for a little while before we were lucky enough to find a track that took us to a clearing where we spent a beautiful evening watching the sunset then relaxing by the campfire under a blanket of stars. Although the day didn’t quite go as planned we’d still managed to walk more than 16kms and, more importantly, we’d had a memorable time.

The first part of the Rim Walk is the hardest- lots of rocky stairs up to the top.

Taking a breather on the way up

Dare Devil Daniel disregarded the signs asking visitors to 'Stay 2m back from the edge of the cliffs'

Getting close to the edge again - this time to look at an overhang jutting out from the cliff face (see below for a close up of the overhang- hence why you are asked to stay back from the edges!).

Looking down in the Garden of Eden. The permanent waterhole keeps the area lush and green.

The stunning Kings Canyon

Admiring the Garden of Eden

Climbing through the rocky domes to get to a lookout

Walking along the southern rim, heading back down- such a stunning view.

Our lucky find for the night - a clearing off a track far enough away from road that we didn't have any car noise- and we got to watch the sunset- perfect!

Our true bush girl- drying off by the campfire after an outdoor shower.