4 Stray Katz: The Gibb River Road- Part 2

The Gibb River Road - the middle 5 nights.

Sunday 3rd - Thursday 7th September

Day 6/7/8- Gibb River Free Camp

We only did a short drive before deciding to check out the camping along the actual Gibb River, we’d camped here on our last trip but there was only a small amount of water left then, basically a big puddle. This time was different. Due to the bumper wet season and the floods earlier this year, the Gibb River was flowing. At the moment it is a sandy bottomed, paper bark lined, shallow creek with a few deeper sections. We found a spot in the sand overlooking the water, it was beautiful. The kids had so much fun building a dam and digging out sections of the river to make small pools and we all enjoyed relaxing in the cool water. It was such a nice spot, and it was free, so we ended up staying 3 nights. The kids found lots of interesting sparkly rocks so they spent their days alternating between ‘crystal hunting’, dam building, playing board and card games and enjoying the deep water up near the river crossing. The evenings cooled off so it was lovely sitting by the campfire looking up at the star filled sky each night. We’ve changed our routine (to fit in with WA time) so we are going to bed about 8pm then we’re up early (between 5.30 and 6am) as it is already completely light by then.

The view from our camp down onto the sandy banks of the Gibb River.

Jackson digging the sand up to make a few deeper pools- we'd already moved all of those big rocks to make the dam. He got to work as soon as he got up in the morning- he loved it.

Relaxing in the water gushing over the road crossing- this was the deepest section of the river so we spent a bit of time swimming here.

Jackson in one of the 'pools' he dug out.

Cleaning some of the many cool rocks (many with little crystals in them) that he found along the edge of the river.

Some of the rock art just near where we camped.

Getting ready to watch the sunset after looking at the nearby rock art.

It was a stunning campsite (and even better as it was free!).

Day 9/10 – Mt Elizabeth Station

We pulled into Mt Elizabeth Station before lunch so we had the whole afternoon to begin exploring the property. We firstly took the easier 4wd track to Warla Gorge and were surprised to find a ‘beach’ with pure white sand going into a rocky river. We found a few deep sections and enjoyed a swim before exploring some of the rock pools. We were the only people there so it was so peaceful floating in the water looking at the old paperbarks lining the banks and watching the kites swoop by overhead. After leaving we headed to the ruins of the old homestead, where we wandered around looking at the rusted cars, old buildings (including an old thunderbox) and the cemetery. Nature was already trying to reclaim the place with the huge native mango trees beginning to engulf the small homestead and surrounding buildings. We drove back to camp just as the sun was setting and the air was finally cooling off.

The next day we went to Wunnamurra Gorge with some friends we’d made. We had to drive together as they’d got a flat tyre the day before (on the track to Warla Gorge) and their spare was the wrong size. We gave them our spare to use until they could get a replacement (100kms further along the Gibb River Road) so we had to go in a convoy in case either of us got a puncture. It was a very rocky track through the property and we bumped along very slowly. In the end it took us about an hour to go 10kms!! We then had a 30 minute hike over the rocks to get to the top of the gorge but it was well worth it – the gorge was as spectacular as we remembered it to be. We spent several hours swimming then relaxing on the warm rocks when we got too cool. We also walked along the gorge to find some incredibly well preserved aboriginal art, but the highlight was definitely climbing up into the opening behind the waterfall. It was such an incredible experience to be standing behind the gushing water looking down the gorge.

We arrived back at camp mid afternoon ready to get our fresh washing off the clotheslines only to discover a bird (or birds) had used our freshly washed sheets as a toilet!! There was bird poo all over the sheets and it had dried hard in the hot sun, so I spent the rest of the afternoon scrubbing it off before having to rewash the sheets! Thankfully the hot air dried the sheets in record time so we still had fresh bedding that night.

We'd heard great reviews about the dinners at Mt Elizabeth so we’d booked in when we arrived (luckily as they ended up being booked out). We went up to the homestead about 5.30pm to enjoy a few drinks with fellow campers around the communal fire before heading into dinner- which ended up being one of the best meals we’ve ever had. They cooked us eye fillet steaks (their own beef which was incredible), homemade sausages, roast pumpkin and potato, and cauliflower & broccoli bake. The steak (which had been cooked to all our likings) literally melted in your mouth, it was so tasty. After dinner (and seconds) they then brought out black-forest cake with home made ice-cream- the kids eyes nearly popped out of their heads when their desserts arrived! Their excited reaction prompted one of the ladies who worked their to go and get them a second dessert when they’d finished eating their first – the kids could not believe their luck. Daniel also scored an apple crumble after his cake (I think they could sense how jealous he was of the kids’ second dessert!!). It was a thoroughly enjoyable evening and the perfect way to end a really fun few days at Mt Elizabeth Station.