Nature at its spectacular best - Queensland you have redeemed yourself!

Carnarvon Gorge, QLD

Friday 27th May - Wednesday 1st June

As we drove into Carnarvon Gorge and the scenery changed to dramatic cliffs, we were already buzzing with anticipation about what we would experience over the coming days. Our excitement rose as we pulled into Sandstone Park, a basic camp on the top of mountain. What it lacked in facilities it more than made up for with 360 degree views of the surrounding mountain ranges.

We'd originally planned on staying 3 nights, but we were so taken with the beauty of Carnarvon Gorge, that we ended up staying for 5.

Our days at Carnarvon Gorge National Park were spent like this:

Day 1: Arrived mid afternoon and were delighted at the incredible camp spot we had. After setting up we went to the Rock Pool for our first peek at the incredible natural wonders of Carnarvon Gorge. We had a quick dip (it was freezing) and watched a small turtle balance on a log. The evening was spent enjoying the sunset and planning for the 'Big Walk' that we were undertaking the next day.

Day 2: The 'Big Walk'. There is no actual walk called the Big Walk, but that is what everyone called it. It just meant that you were going to walk through the gorge to the end of the track, then take as many side tracks as you could on the way back. It is 19.4km to get to Big Bend, at the end of the gorge, which is a big walk in itself but by the time you add on the side tracks it makes for a big walk! We made it to the end by lunchtime then on the way back we explored the narrow, moss covered Boowinda Gorge, admired the rock art at Cathedral Cave, marvelled at the sheer volume of indigenous paintings and engravings (62m) at the Art Gallery and visited the picturesque Ward's Canyon which is full of king ferns (the world's largest ferns). After Ward's Canyon we were all pretty worn out so we decided to leave the last 3 side tracks for another day. It was certainly a long 4km back to the carpark from Ward's Canyon, but we made it back by 4.20pm, 8 hours after we left. We'd done nearly 25km, an epic effort for the kids. After another dip at the Rock Pool (the icy water was very soothing on our tired feet and muscles) we enjoyed another lovely sunset and an early night!

Day 3: We rose for the sunrise and decided a few shorter walks was just what we needed to stretch our tired muscles. After a lazy morning we headed to the Visitor Centre and did the short Nature Walk. We'd been advised to do the walk at dusk or dawn, to increase our chances of seeing a platypus. Well we were in luck. It was 12.30pm and we saw 3! We stood on the bank for ages watching them dive under then pop back up for air. This was the first time Daniel and the kids had seen platypus in the wild, so we were all very pleased. After lunch we did the Micky Creek Gorge walk and were again overwhelmed by the diversity and sheer volume of natural delights on display. There was beauty everywhere you looked. 

Day 4: After another early morning watching the sunrise we embarked on the steep climb to Boolimba Bluff. We climbed right up the middle of a small gorge until we reached the flat top, where we wandered through the gums to the edge and were rewarded with spectacular views. We did the nature walk again when we returned and we saw the platypus again - so lucky! After our obligatory swim in the Rock Pool (there were no showers so this was the only way to wash off the dirt and sweat), we relaxed at camp.

Day 5: Today we did the remaining side tracks. There were only 2, but we still needed to walk about 4km into the gorge to get there. Both of these side tracks had particularly spectacular delights at the end. At Moss Garden the water dripping from the sandstone has enabled a green carpet of moss and ferns to grow over the rocks below, giving the effect of living walls when you are there. The Amphitheatre is a 60m chamber hidden inside a gorge. You need to climb and ladder then rock hop through the narrow gorge to get to the open area, nestled within towering stone walls. It was incredible. We finished the day with another swim and enjoyed watching 2 small turtles balance on a log together.

Over the 4 days of walking we trekked about 52km within Cathedral Gorge and we enjoyed every moment in this natural wonder. We understand why the place was, and still is, of particular significance to Aboriginal people and why they would come from miles away to meet here. We discovered that Carnarvon Gorge was also used by Aboriginal people to bury their elders when they passed, though they weren't actually buried underground they were wrapped in bark and animal skins and placed within crevices in the cliffs. I wonder if the feeling of peace and serenity you get when walking through the gorge has anything to do with the many spirits of the past that reside here.

We did it! After 8 hours of walking!

Day 1 - nearly 25km to kick off our time at Carnarvon Gorge.

The Rock Pool where we swam every afternoon

The kangaroo wasn't disturbed by our presence, it just kept going with its meal.

Enjoying lunch and the view at the end of the gorge track (Big Bend)

Rock hopping up to Boowinda Gorge

The sheer cliffs on either side of the gorge were awe inspiring

The Reflections Pool rewarded us with shimmering art when the sun poked out from behind the clouds.

Walking the gorge track, along Carnarvon Creek.

Taking the path between the rocks to the Art Gallery

There were over 2000 engravings, stencil art works and free hand paintings at the Art Gallery site. The nets (criss cross paintings) indicate that this was also a burial site.

Jackson spent the 4 days on the quest to find the perfect wooden walking stick. He went through quite a few before settling on a sturdy, straight one.

Enjoying the sunset after a big day walking.

Then the sunrise the next morning.

The huge rocks and masses of ferns in Mickey Creek Gorge

One of the side tracks at Mickey Creek Gorge took us to this very narrow crevice, where the light hardly made it down.

Daniel and Jackson went further up the gorge until they couldn't go anymore.

A sore ankle = a fireman's carry back to the car!

About to start the climb up to Boolimba Bluff.

Daniel joined the hunt for the perfect walking stick!

The kids tried some of the stencil art they'd seen the day before. This was done with powdered sandstone, though not in the traditional method as she didn't want to put it in her mouth.

An innovative game- 'catch the thong'. It was tied to a stick and one child threw it in the air and then pulled it back, then the other had to catch it. There were a few 'thong to the head' incidents!

There were so many impressive trees, this one was on the way to Moss Garden.

Moss Garden Selfie

The Rock Pool - thankfully they decided not to jump in.

There were heaps of creek crossings on the main walking track that involved rock hopping (and sometimes wet boots!).

Another sunset by a roaring fire.

The view from Boolimba Bluff

Moss Garden

Climbing up into the Ampitheatre.

Caught between a rock and a hard place!

The gap to get in (and out) of the Amphitheatre

Jackson has taken over building and lighting the fires - not easy when it is windy.

Another tree we all marvelled it - it is growing right onto the rock.

Stencil art on the overhangning rock at Cathedral Cave.

Clouds rolling over the mountain one morning - such a beautiful sight.

One of the three platypus we were lucky enough to see.

Walking into the narrow Boolimba Gorge

A green tree snake we encountered on a walk.

Perfect timing- getting the spot that turned a roadside stop from okay to great.

Dawson's River, Moura, QLD

Wednesday 25th May- Friday 27th May

To break the journey to Carnarvon Gorge we stopped about halfway at a camping area that the local Apex Club maintains. It was a nice spot right on the Dawson River, complete with basic amenities and fire pits. There were quite a few campers when we rolled in and we were contemplating where to set up (well actually Daniel and Emilia were scoping out spots whilst Jackson and I made use of the facilities) when 2 campers pulled out of the only spot on the river- SCORED!!!

We quickly backed the van in, still not believing our luck. Lots more campers rolled in that afternoon, so we were extra grateful to get the only secluded spot - that also had river views.

We were only going to spend a night but decided to make the most of the lovely spot and have a catch up day. Emilia and I caught up on our blogs and school work, whilst Jackson and Daniel did some fishing and kayaking. We also did lots of reading and played some games. It was nice to have a slow day.

We had great weather too- warm days and cool nights- perfect for sitting around the campfire watching the possums run amok.

On the last night we were treated to a lightning show in the distance. Thankfully the storm headed in the other direction and we were saved from the rain.

It was an unexpectedly lovely few nights and we are grateful to the local council and the Moura Apex Club for providing and maintaining this place.

It was the perfect day for a bit of colouring........

....and catching fish with the nets.

Daniel and Jackson swam both days, but I only went in on the 2nd day (the water was quite cold and, as you can see, still quite muddy from the floodwaters).

Emilia decided the water was too cold, and opted to just wash her feet in the shallows instead.

He can't resist a photo bomb opportunity!

Jackson spent most of the day fishing off the bank - he loves it.

One of the friendly possums that explored our campsite in the evenings.

On the morning we left a Blue-winged kookaburra sat on the fence and watched us pack up. We had been listening to their unique sound (described by Wikipedia as 'maniacal cackling') but hadn't seen one up close until then.

Queensland - raining one day, pouring the next!!

Maryborough, QLD- Friday 20^th May (just a lunch stop and a look around the town)

Gin Gin Rest Area – Friday 20^th May (a wet overnight stop)

Tannum Sands, QLD – Saturday 21^st May – Wednesday 25^th May

We left Deana’s on Friday morning determined to head further north in the hope of some better weather. After a quick stop in Caloundra to get the connection from the car to the van fixed (the van fridge hadn’t been running whilst we were driving), we begun heading towards the Gladstone area, praying for some sunshine.

Based on a suggestion from Kate (she’d seen a segment on the news) we stopped at Maryborough to see the newly renovated toilets at the town hall. Wow, what a surprise! I hadn’t told the kids what to expect and they were gobsmacked when we walked into the fully hand painted rooms, complete with chandeliers, ceiling frescoes, classical music and even a gold-plated loo!! We were lucky enough to meet the artist who designed and painted the Parent’s Room, and he gave us a run down on the inspiration behind his work and the intended purpose of the items he included in his artwork. It was well worth stopping for.

We then found out that Maryborough is the birth town of the author of Mary Poppins, Pamela L. Travers, and the town is adorned with Mary Poppins inspired sculptures, a museum and even the streetlights are Mary Poppins themed! As it was a public holiday (local show day), the museum was unfortunately closed, but we were still able to enter the grounds and take a few happy snaps.

We were tempted to stay the night, but it was beginning to spit whilst we were eating lunch, and it quickly turned to much heavier rain, so we decided we might as well keep driving. We made it to Gin Gin (I was hoping for a Gin Distillery but alas there was not one!) where we set up for the night at a roadside stop. The rain kept going ALL NIGHT and we awoke to find ourselves camped in a huge puddle, with our thongs floating away! The rain was very heavy so we moved to one of the provided shelters and decided to wait a few hours before heading off, in the hope the rain would subside and make the drive a bit easier. It didn’t!

We drove the whole way.... in the rain. We stopped for lunch…in the rain. We arrived at Tannum Sands….in the rain. We set up…in the rain. We managed a short walk on the beach but then got caught….in the rain!!! We went to bed feeling a bit disillusioned, so far the trip wasn’t really living up to our expectations, with the weather the cause of most of our angst.

However, we awoke on Sunday morning to glorious sunshine. After spending the day exploring the rock pools and boogie boarding, we felt renewed. It also helped that the sun dried everything for us…having wet clothes and towels constantly hanging up in the van was doing my head in! The waves were perfect for boogie boarding and the kids and I had such a fun time riding the waves in. It was made even the more hilarious due to the poor quality of the elastic in my bathers. My well loved swimmers didn’t stand a chance against these waves and there were lots of peek-a-boo moments- I spent half the time holding my bathers on whilst trying to boogie board – it was extremely funny and gave us all a well needed laugh!

The next day began with sunshine as well (OMG- 2 days in a row of sunshine!!) and we had a lazy morning before heading into Gladstone to do some shopping (with new bathers the first item on the list). Unfortunately by lunchtime the rain had returned so we whiled away a few hours in a shopping complex, where Daniel and I even managed to get our flu shots. That night we went on an evening walk along the inlet, spotting cane toads. Daniel and Jackson did their civic duty and slayed the pests (much to the disgust of Emilia!).

The weather wasn’t too bad on Tuesday so the kids spent the morning catching pufferfish in the rockpools, then we all had another swim and boogie board and enjoyed our last taste of the ocean for a while. We are heading inland now and probably won’t be back on the coast until Townsville.

We left early on Wednesday morning to take the car and van into Gladstone to get some maintenance done. Unfortunately there was a mistake with the booking and the couldn’t fit us in. We’d planned to head to Mt Larcom after the car was done to tackle the summit climb, but Emilia was feeling quite unwell so we decided to begin making our way towards Carnarvon Gorge, hoping we’d find a decent roadside stop for the night.

The royal throne in Maryborough.

The walls and ceilings were all handpainted.

The Parent's Room- depicting a scene from Mary Poppins, with local buildings added, as well as some 3D effects (hot air balloon lights, cherry blossoms and layers of multitextured wallpaper). It was a delightful room that I am sure young children would love.

The Parent's Room

The Mary Poppins themed lights at the pedestrian crossings in Maryborough.

We couldn't miss this photo opportunity.

Up, Up and Away.

Getting into character!

Catching some waves at Tannum Sands (and trying to keep my bather bottoms up!).

Enjoying some well needed beach days.

Sand surfing was a hit....

...and a miss!

The rockpools where the kids spent hours hunting (and catching) small pufferfish.

The speargun Jackson made to help him on his fish catching quest. He spent hours rigging it up with wool and rubber bands, but unfortunatley it eventually broke and ended up in the bin. It brought hours of fun though :)

We enjoyed watching the birds near our camp enjoying these blossoms, they regularly hung upside down whilst eating which was cool to watch.

'Mitta Glen' - Deana's breathtakingly beautiful B&B in the Blackall Ranges

Mitta Glen, Flaxton, Blackall Ranges, QLD

Tuesday 17th May- Friday 20th May

After a nail biting drive up an extremely steep road (where the transmission overheated, the car stopped changing gears and we ended up stationary on the precipice- with at least 5 vehicles behind us), we arrived at Deana’s (Daniel’s cousin) impressive old Queenslander – Mitta Glen. Mitta Glen is a 1890s home, transported to the edge of a ridge that is a part of the Blackall Ranges, in the Sunshine Coast Hinterlands. Deana has converted Mitta Glen to house an additional 3 luxury bedrooms that she operates as B&B accommodation, with full country hospitality. The views, the gardens and the home are spectacular, and we all wandered around in awe. Emilia was particularly taken with the place and she especially loved the built in bookcase with moving ladder. 

Deana is a marvellous host and she spoilt us with her cooking and hospitality. We ate and drank like royalty (and left a few kilos heavier!). It was so lovely to catch up with her (we haven’t seen her since 2019) and see her place. The kids also enjoyed lots of cuddles with her cat, Narla, a swim in the pool and wandering around the expansive gardens.

Whilst staying there we spent 2 days exploring the local area, enjoying the many sights including:

- Kondililla National Park – where we hiked through the rainforest to the impressive Kondililla Falls (which was gushing down due to the recent rains).

-         -  Doing the scenic drive along the ridge – it dropped off dramatically on each side of the road and the views were breathtaking.

-          - Maleny- where we walked along the creek hoping to spot an elusive platypus (we didn’t see a platypus but we did see lots of lovely sculptures).

-          - Gardener’s Falls – we dodged the mud to get down to these small, but picturesque, falls although it began raining quite a bit whilst we were there. It would be the perfect place to spend a warm summer’s afternoon.

-         -  Mary Cairncross National Park- where we enjoyed the views over the Glasshouse Mountains and did a small canopy walk to see different parts of the rainforest up close.

-         -  Montville – a village right up on the ridge, full of quaint shops- our favourites were the German cuckoo clock shop, the Montville chocolatier, the woodcarving shop and a photo gallery full of incredible nature shots.

-         -  Lake Baroon- a huge dam that is the water supply for the area. You could walk down to see the water plummeting down the spillway, which was quite impressive.

Whilst staying at Deana’s we also caught up with one of Daniel’s workmates, Timmy, and his wife Shayley in Bli Bli for a lovely dinner watching the sunset over the cane fields (the view from their backyard).

Although the weather was less than perfect (high humidity, lots of rain and low lying cloud) we still had a fabulous time and we can see why Deana fell in love with this place and decided to move here.

Thanks Deana for having us at Mitta Glen – we hope to be back sometime.

https://mittaglenguesthouse.com.au/

Mitta Glen - the gorgeous old Queenslander Deana now calls home.

What a great spot for the van!

The indulgent breakfast Deana made for us on our first morning.

Walking in Kondalilla National Park - the view to the Obi Obi Ranges

Enjoying the view (and taking a breather as it was a super humid day)

The rainforest was home to some very impressive trees.

The rockpool at the top of Kondalilla Falls

Daniel enjoying the power of Kondalilla Falls (and possibly praying to the weather gods!).

Gardener's Falls- just before it began raining again.

One of the many water dragons we saw.

The view of the Glasshouse Mountains was a bit obscured by the mist, but still beautiful.

Saying goodbye to Deana and Narla.