9 Jun 2022

Nature at its spectacular best - Queensland you have redeemed yourself!

Carnarvon Gorge, QLD

Friday 27th May - Wednesday 1st June

As we drove into Carnarvon Gorge and the scenery changed to dramatic cliffs, we were already buzzing with anticipation about what we would experience over the coming days. Our excitement rose as we pulled into Sandstone Park, a basic camp on the top of mountain. What it lacked in facilities it more than made up for with 360 degree views of the surrounding mountain ranges.

We'd originally planned on staying 3 nights, but we were so taken with the beauty of Carnarvon Gorge, that we ended up staying for 5.

Our days at Carnarvon Gorge National Park were spent like this:

Day 1: Arrived mid afternoon and were delighted at the incredible camp spot we had. After setting up we went to the Rock Pool for our first peek at the incredible natural wonders of Carnarvon Gorge. We had a quick dip (it was freezing) and watched a small turtle balance on a log. The evening was spent enjoying the sunset and planning for the 'Big Walk' that we were undertaking the next day.

Day 2: The 'Big Walk'. There is no actual walk called the Big Walk, but that is what everyone called it. It just meant that you were going to walk through the gorge to the end of the track, then take as many side tracks as you could on the way back. It is 19.4km to get to Big Bend, at the end of the gorge, which is a big walk in itself but by the time you add on the side tracks it makes for a big walk! We made it to the end by lunchtime then on the way back we explored the narrow, moss covered Boowinda Gorge, admired the rock art at Cathedral Cave, marvelled at the sheer volume of indigenous paintings and engravings (62m) at the Art Gallery and visited the picturesque Ward's Canyon which is full of king ferns (the world's largest ferns). After Ward's Canyon we were all pretty worn out so we decided to leave the last 3 side tracks for another day. It was certainly a long 4km back to the carpark from Ward's Canyon, but we made it back by 4.20pm, 8 hours after we left. We'd done nearly 25km, an epic effort for the kids. After another dip at the Rock Pool (the icy water was very soothing on our tired feet and muscles) we enjoyed another lovely sunset and an early night!

Day 3: We rose for the sunrise and decided a few shorter walks was just what we needed to stretch our tired muscles. After a lazy morning we headed to the Visitor Centre and did the short Nature Walk. We'd been advised to do the walk at dusk or dawn, to increase our chances of seeing a platypus. Well we were in luck. It was 12.30pm and we saw 3! We stood on the bank for ages watching them dive under then pop back up for air. This was the first time Daniel and the kids had seen platypus in the wild, so we were all very pleased. After lunch we did the Micky Creek Gorge walk and were again overwhelmed by the diversity and sheer volume of natural delights on display. There was beauty everywhere you looked. 

Day 4: After another early morning watching the sunrise we embarked on the steep climb to Boolimba Bluff. We climbed right up the middle of a small gorge until we reached the flat top, where we wandered through the gums to the edge and were rewarded with spectacular views. We did the nature walk again when we returned and we saw the platypus again - so lucky! After our obligatory swim in the Rock Pool (there were no showers so this was the only way to wash off the dirt and sweat), we relaxed at camp.

Day 5: Today we did the remaining side tracks. There were only 2, but we still needed to walk about 4km into the gorge to get there. Both of these side tracks had particularly spectacular delights at the end. At Moss Garden the water dripping from the sandstone has enabled a green carpet of moss and ferns to grow over the rocks below, giving the effect of living walls when you are there. The Amphitheatre is a 60m chamber hidden inside a gorge. You need to climb and ladder then rock hop through the narrow gorge to get to the open area, nestled within towering stone walls. It was incredible. We finished the day with another swim and enjoyed watching 2 small turtles balance on a log together.

Over the 4 days of walking we trekked about 52km within Cathedral Gorge and we enjoyed every moment in this natural wonder. We understand why the place was, and still is, of particular significance to Aboriginal people and why they would come from miles away to meet here. We discovered that Carnarvon Gorge was also used by Aboriginal people to bury their elders when they passed, though they weren't actually buried underground they were wrapped in bark and animal skins and placed within crevices in the cliffs. I wonder if the feeling of peace and serenity you get when walking through the gorge has anything to do with the many spirits of the past that reside here.

We did it! After 8 hours of walking!

Day 1 - nearly 25km to kick off our time at Carnarvon Gorge.

The Rock Pool where we swam every afternoon


The kangaroo wasn't disturbed by our presence, it just kept going with its meal.


Enjoying lunch and the view at the end of the gorge track (Big Bend)

Rock hopping up to Boowinda Gorge

The sheer cliffs on either side of the gorge were awe inspiring

The Reflections Pool rewarded us with shimmering art when the sun poked out from behind the clouds.

Walking the gorge track, along Carnarvon Creek.
Taking the path between the rocks to the Art Gallery

There were over 2000 engravings, stencil art works and free hand paintings at the Art Gallery site. The nets (criss cross paintings) indicate that this was also a burial site.

Jackson spent the 4 days on the quest to find the perfect wooden walking stick. He went through quite a few before settling on a sturdy, straight one.

Enjoying the sunset after a big day walking.

Then the sunrise the next morning.

The huge rocks and masses of ferns in Mickey Creek Gorge

One of the side tracks at Mickey Creek Gorge took us to this very narrow crevice, where the light hardly made it down.


Daniel and Jackson went further up the gorge until they couldn't go anymore.

A sore ankle = a fireman's carry back to the car!

About to start the climb up to Boolimba Bluff.

Daniel joined the hunt for the perfect walking stick!


The kids tried some of the stencil art they'd seen the day before. This was done with powdered sandstone, though not in the traditional method as she didn't want to put it in her mouth.

An innovative game- 'catch the thong'. It was tied to a stick and one child threw it in the air and then pulled it back, then the other had to catch it. There were a few 'thong to the head' incidents!

There were so many impressive trees, this one was on the way to Moss Garden.

Moss Garden Selfie

The Rock Pool - thankfully they decided not to jump in.

There were heaps of creek crossings on the main walking track that involved rock hopping (and sometimes wet boots!).


Another sunset by a roaring fire.

The view from Boolimba Bluff

Moss Garden

Climbing up into the Ampitheatre.

Caught between a rock and a hard place!

The gap to get in (and out) of the Amphitheatre

Jackson has taken over building and lighting the fires - not easy when it is windy.

Another tree we all marvelled it - it is growing right onto the rock.

Stencil art on the overhangning rock at Cathedral Cave.

Clouds rolling over the mountain one morning - such a beautiful sight.

One of the three platypus we were lucky enough to see.




Walking into the narrow Boolimba Gorge

A green tree snake we encountered on a walk.


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