Gorging on mud crab on the Brian Lee Tagalong Tour

Brian Lee Tagalong Tour

Cape Leveque and Hunter's Creek, Dampier Peninsula, WA

Monday 2nd October

We’d heard great reports of this tour so were all very excited when we left camp to meet up with Brian and the other participants at the nearby Djarindjin Roadhouse. Nearly an hour later we were starting to get worried as Brian hadn’t turned up yet – but within a few moments an old Navara rolled into the carpark loaded with fishing rods, hand spears and crab hooks – Brian had arrived. His car had broken down so he’d had to hastily move all his gear over to another vehicle. We finally embarked on the adventure that would take us up to Cape Leveque and across to Hunter’s Creek (named after Brian’s great grandfather- an Englishman- who settled in this area in the late 1800’s and ended up fathering 13 children with a local Indigenous woman).

On our way into Cape Leveque (the resort is now closed and the area is currently inaccessible to tourists so the only way you can see this stunning part of the Dampier Peninsula is on a tour) we stopped off on the side of the track and all wandered into the bush where Brian gave us a lesson on bush medicine. We learnt about the Kakadu Plum tree, whose fruit is one of the highest sources of vitamin C in the world and we all smelt and tasted the bark which is boiled up or ground with oil and used topically for a range of ailments. We also chewed on the sap of a bloodwood tree which provided a numbing sensation – a traditional method for relieving toothaches. After learning about a few more of the traditional uses for some of the plants in the area we drove on towards Cape Leveque.

The bark from the Kakadu Plum tree has many medicinal and topical uses

The crystalised sap from a Bloodwood tree is chewed on to provide relief from toothaches........

....it certainly didn't taste very nice though!

Once we finally arrived at the Kooljaman resort (after a short delay at the gate as Brian had left the padlock keys in his broken-down car – luckily the caretakers were able to drive out and open the gate up for us) we sat on the steps of the deserted resort reception building and Brain sadly told us about the demise of what was once a thriving holiday resort that had won state and national awards for eco-tourism. He told us that a combination of old buildings that required constant maintenance, inadequate financial planning and an inability to make decisions because of the many conflicting interests (and egos) of the 100+ board members (around 50 from each of the neighbouring communities) resulted in the closure of the resort and access to the beaches in 2021. It is such a shame and we really hope something gets worked out in the future – it is a remarkable location and it would be great to be able to stay in such a special place.

From the resort we headed onto the beach via a sandy track where the two other vehicles travelling with us both got bogged, one quite bad. Daniel came to the rescue and we all finally made it to one of the most stunning beaches I’ve ever seen- crystal clear, turquoise water and soft white sand with a long line of shells that the tide had brought up. Before we all got in the water Brian taught the kids how to use a small shell as a whistle, so now we have another way for Jackson to make noise in the car!! The water was a perfect temperature and I enjoyed a swim while Jackson put his line in, Daniel went for a snorkel and Emilia wandered up the beach looking for shells (she ended up finding some incredible ones). After a few minutes of floating around Jackson yelled out and pointed in the direction of the horizon – there was a huge whale breaching. We all watched in amazement as the whale (which wasn’t very far out from shore) did about six big breaches, where it’s whole body came out of the water – it was absolutely incredible to see.

Looking for whistle shells

Jackson's first try at using a whistle shell - both kids got much better and could easily whistle through the shells by the end of the day.

From there we headed to Hunter’s Creek, with Jackson scoring a ride in with Brian and his dog – Roldo. The tide was fully up when we arrived and the strong midday sun brought out the bright, vivid colours of the mangroves and the water- it was stunning. Within a few minutes of us arriving the excitement began. Brian spotted a mud crab as he was parking his car and called out to us- Jackson was the first to get there and Brian gave him a spear. Jackson began trying to get the crab who was putting a good fight. Daniel took over and after a few minutes dancing through the shallow water trying not to get bitten Daniel managed to spear the crab- we were all pretty excited as that meant crab for lunch. Everyone wanted a piece of the action so within a few minutes all the kids and a few adults were wading along the mangroves with spears or crab hooks trying their luck! Half an hour later no-one had been successful so Jackson and Daniel decided to go for a snorkel through the mangroves, while Brian took Emilia and I on up the creek on his boat to see if we could find the resident crocodile who hides out further up the creek the muddier section. The area we were swimming in had a sandy bottom and the water was exceptionally clear so apparently the crocodile never comes down to this section. The river was just stunning and we had a great time cruising as Brian told us more about the plants in the area and some stories from his past. We spotted a stingray and lots of fish and birds, but no crocodile (which was fine as I am not sure I would have been too happy with everyone snorkelling and swimming if I’d actually seen the croc). 

It was high tide when we arrived at Hunter's Creek, the sunlight on the water turned it such a lovely colour.

Helping Brian get the boat ready.

Going for the first mud crab of the day

Success!

Emilia trying to nab a mud crab for herself

We arrived back to discover Jackson had caught a huge mud crab. He had seen it when he was out snorkelling and had managed to get it to grab onto his spear and then he walked it to shore. It actually completely bent the top of the spear as it’s grip was so strong. Once he determined that it was a male he flipped it over and speared it – all by himself, as Daniel was still out snorkelling. Brian was super impressed and admitted the crab was bigger than the biggest one he has ever caught. Jackson was buzzing with adrenaline and he revelled in everyone’s excitement.

We ended up with 3 mud crabs, a trevally, a blue bone (which Brian caught the day before and brought for us all to share) and a sweetlip that Daniel speared. Brian cooked them all up on the fire for us – it was a feast. Jackson got the claw from the mud crab he caught – it had so much meat on it and it was delicious.

Jackson and the whopper crab he caught - I was out on the boat exploring the creek so luckily one of the other ladies took some photos for me.

It was certainly a big one

Brian was so pleased for Jackson.

The three mud crabs we got- Daniel caught two and Jackson got the huge one.

Emilia tried hard but unfortunately didn't get one

Getting ready to snorkel and try for some fish

Daniel speared a sweetlip and Emilia, who was snorkelling with him when he got the fish, swam it back to shore

Our afternoon feast (missing the Sweetlip that was getting gutted at the time)

Watching how to prepare the mudcrab once it was cooked

We had a feast - the claw from the one Jackson got had so much meat in it.

After gorging on mudcrab it was time for fish.

After our big feed we swam some more and the kids all enjoyed playing together. They ran up the river then let the current of the outgoing tide propel them downstream before swimming to the edge and doing it all over again!

The sun was beginning to get closer to the horizon so Brian suggested we drive along the creek to where it meets the ocean so we could watch the sunset over the water. It was a stunning sunset in an incredible location.

As darkness descended we drove back to Kooljaman resort and said our goodbyes – it had been an epic day and we were left with so many great memories. 

It was such a beautifully remote place to spend the afternoon. Daniel took some drone photos and video to show just how remote we were.

Before we left the creek Brian showed the kids a trick with matchsticks- he was so good with all the kids.

By the time we left the tide was nearly at its lowest

On our way along the edge of the creek to the ocean to watch the sunset

There were so many incredible shells, Emilia couldn't resist

Watching the sun setting over the ocean at Cape Leveque was a perfect way to end what had been an extraordinary day.