Crazy Katz tackle the Tanami Track after losing a tyre and needing a tow

Tanami Track, Halls Creek, WA to Alice Springs, NT

Wednesday 11^th – Monday 16^th October

We left Broome early (5.30am) hoping to make it close to Halls Creek so we could start the Tanami Track the next day, but the universe had other plans. About 80kms out of Broome we must have hit a pothole or a rough bit of the road as there was a huge bang, then the caravan began to swerve. The rear tyre on the left hand side of the caravan had broken off and was rolling down the road behind us! Daniel expertly guided the car and caravan to the shoulder of the highway and we all let out a sigh of relief that we were safe. The incident could have been a whole lot worse – we were lucky there was no oncoming traffic as the force of the caravan bouncing on the tyre as it rolled under the back of the van, then impact of the wheel hub landing on the bitumen, sent us careening onto the wrong side of the road. Daniel’s split-second decision to go with the movement of the vehicles then gently correct and slow the car before steering us to the safety of the wide section of dirt on the side of the road saved the caravan from flipping over. After a lengthy discussion with AAMI we were finally collected by a tow truck about 3 hours after the accident. Amazingly, the wonderful team at Broome Caravan Repairs were able to fix the damaged wheel and get us back on the road. The rest of the damage can wait and we will get it fixed once we get back to Victoria (along with the damage from the emu incident in January). Incredibly we were back on the road by about 3pm. We didn’t go too far though as it had been a full on day! At about 5pm we pulled into Willare Roadhouse and finally relaxed.

We left early the next morning and pretty much drove all day. It was an extremely hot day, peaking at 41 deg, so it was more comfortable to be in the air-conditioned car than outside! Our planned lunch stop at Fitzroy Crossing wasn’t to be as there were roadwork crews everywhere working frantically to fix all the damage to the roads and the bridge that occurred during the floods at the start of the year. The damage from the floods was still so visible, with huge washed down trees lining the upper banks of the river and damage to all the low lying buildings. We pulled into Halls Creek about 4pm to fill up with fuel then began the Tanami Track. By the time we finally stopped for the night, about 20km along the Tanami, we’d been travelling for 11 hours.

Our poor wheel-less van :(

Some dusk netball practice- there were fires smouldering all around (even at the back fence of the roadhouse) so the sky was eerie greyish colour.

Tanami Track

First night: roadside stop 20km from the start.

We found a great spot just over a small rise so we were not visible from the road. The sunset was incredible as there are so many smouldering fires at the moment that the smoke haze turns the setting sun into a glowing fluorescent red ball. It was a very hot night and the caravan didn’t get below 27 degrees overnight. Daniel and I woke early (before 5am) and enjoyed a beautiful sunrise- I actually did yoga while watching the sunrise. It was the first of my Tanami yoga sessions – incredible views but difficult conditions– this time I had spiky spinifex surrounding me and flies constantly crawling over me, so much so that I had to keep my eyes closed so they wouldn’t get into my eyes.

Finally starting the Tanami Track - we made it in the end!!

Filthy feet already, just imagine what they'll be like in a few days!!

Our first Tanami sunset, it was amazing as there is so much smoke in the air at the moment which makes the setting sun glow a vibrant red colour.

The sunrise was just as spectacular

Yoga with a view- I did get prickled by the spinifex quite a few times though!

Second night: Lake Gregory

We got on the road reasonably early again, as it was already very hot by 8am and the air-conditioned car was a welcome relief. After fuelling up at Bililuna (diesel was $3.33L) we took a side track heading towards Lake Gregory. We actually did a small section of the Canning Stock Route before veering off. Our first stop was Stretch Lagoon (great place to stretch the legs!) where Daniel had a swim. If it hadn’t have been so windy we would probably have camped there the night, but instead we decided to go to Lake Gregrory, about 80kms up the road. We were about 20km along the track when it got narrower, sandier and a lot more corrugated- both Daniel and I looked at each other wondering why we had made such a crazy choice. At its worst we were putting along at only 5km p/h! It ended up taking us over 3 hours to do 90kms. When we drove through Mulan, the Community just near Lake Gregory, we got a few strange looks. I don’t think they see many people coming from that direction towing a caravan! Lake Gregory was teeming with birdlife, there would have been 50 or more brolgas when we first went down to have a look. The actual campground was a few kilometres from the water and was hot and dusty, so we ended up camping at the end of the track near the lake – we figured we were the only ones crazy enough to come out this way in 43 degree heat so we weren’t worried that we would be blocking the track. We enjoyed another stunning sunset, this time over a lake, before laying back to gaze at the star filled sky. As we were so remote the stars and the Milky Way were incredible. The next morning it was extremely windy so we didn’t hang around long. 

One of the huge eagles we were lucky enough to see. As well as these 2 massive eagles, we also saw camels and several herds of brumbies on our four days along the Tamami Track

On the side track to Lake Gregory - we didn't see another car for over 3 hours.

Just a bit more dust to fill the caravan with!!!

We saw so many termite mounds on our few days crossing the Tanami- these ones are at the campsite at Lake Gregory. Emilia and I particularly liked the one in front with the two holes in it, not sure how the termites managed to make it like that.

There were quite a few flies- I think they were very excited to see people as they were extremely friendly!!

There were so many bird footprints in the soft ground closer to the lake.

Jackson didn't wear his thongs and ended up with some huge bindis in his feet- this is him trying to pick them out of his mud encrusted feet.

The next few photos are drone shots Daniel got, they show how remote and vast Lake Gregory is.

My next yoga with a view, but in extreme conditions. This time the wind was so strong it was nearly toppling me over and there was sand and dust blowing everywhere.

Third night: Quartz Ridge

Our first stop after leaving Lake Gregory was the Community of Balgo where we got the most expensive fuel of the trip - $3.37. We all had a laugh at the local footy oval, it was red rock and dust! By mid morning we had crossed over the border into NT. After a lunch stop in the shade near a dry creek bed, where we watched the billowing dust from two big Tanami Transport road trains as they passed by, we stopped in the late afternoon at a rocky ridge, known as Quartz Ridge. Daniel managed to get the caravan up the top of the ridge and we were rewarded with 360 deg views. There were actually 3 mines in the distance and we were at the perfect vantage point to see some of the mining trucks coming and going. When the sun went down we could see the glow of a distant bushfire, and when the wind changed we could even smell the smoke, even though the fire was hundreds of kilometres away. Once again the stars were sensational and we all saw shooting stars. It was our first night of feeling cool – it was a novelty to snuggle into our doonas.

Extreme footy at Balgo - you wouldn't want to get caught in a tackle on this surface.

Balgo - one of the most remote communities we've ever been to. Daniel asked at the general store if they sell stickers and the guy started laughing- 'We don't get many tourists out here mate' he said with a smile.

$3.37 a litre - ouch.

We made it safely back to the Tanami Track, it was a very long side track!

Onwards and eastwards - heading to the NT.

At the WA and NT border- at least the rubbish has been put to a creative use!

We were literally in the middle of nowhere

So interesting to see the aftermath of the fires from above. There were also blazes burning to the north east - you can see the billowing smoke.

Heading up to Quartz Ridge

What a spectacular campsite!

The sunrise was just as lovely

Although the ground was rocky it was still an incredible spot to do yoga.

Fourth night: Drover’s Camp

Daniel and I enjoyed the sunrise (the kids were still asleep) then Daniel went for a run along the Tanami Track. A truck passed him and we couldn’t help wondering what went through the truck driver’s head- considering where we are, I am sure he didn’t expect to see someone going for a morning jog! We had a slow morning enjoying the beauty of the location before resuming our journey. After a few hours there were heaps of roadwork crews- they are in the process of sealing the Tanami and have already made it to the old Mt Doreen Station site. Our dirt road adventure was over and we were back on bitumen! We’d actually still done just over 800kms on gravel road, including the Tanami and the side track we took to Lake Gregory.

That night we camped at some old cattle yards. The area was full of paddy melons so we used the melons to play bocce with! Once again the stars were wonderful.

The next morning we had a slight panic when the car wouldn’t start, but thankfully Daniel was able to use the caravan battery to get enough charge to start us and we pulled into Alice Springs about midday. We’d made it across the Tanami! 

We were all surprised to see this helicopter with a huge disc hanging from it - we think it might have been surveying?? We were unsure but it was pretty cool to watch.

Jackson, Daniel and I enjoyed looking through the old cars at the Mt Doreen Station ruins

Bocce bush style - using paddymelons!!

Eating fish tacos while the sun sets (we found it quite funny to be eating ocean fish in the desert!).

My last picturesque yoga session on the Tanami- the ground was actually quite soft this time, I only had to deal with wafts of red dirt when the wind blew!