Swimming, boating, hiking and driving our way around Kakadu.

Kakadu National Park, NT

Monday 7^th – Saturday 12^th August

Over the 6 days we spent in Kakadu National Park we immersed our minds in indigenous culture and our bodies in a huge range of waterfalls, plunge pools and rock pools. We camped at Muguk campground for the first 3 nights, where we had a lovely, shaded site in between the paperbark trees. The stunning Maguk plunge pool, waterfall and upper rock pools were only a short drive away so we got to enjoy them first thing in the morning (before we’d even had breakfast), and just before sunset. Both times we had the upper rock pools (which are by far the best) to ourselves. The next 3 nights we stayed at Mardukal campground, it was nice but very hot (we were grateful they had showers so we could cool off before bed). It was a great location though and we used this as our base to explore the central and northern sections of the park.

Over our thoroughly enjoyable 6 days we:

• Had an early swim at the small waterfall and rockpool at Upper Ikoymarrwa Falls, just after we entered the park from the southern end.
• Swam in the deep plunge pool at the base of Maguk Falls twice (late afternoon and early morning).
• Spent a lot of time at the upper pools on top of Maguk Falls- these are not very well known, and are not signposted, so we mostly had the whole place to ourselves. They are a series of deep plunge pools surrounded by tall rocks- perfect for the kids (and Daniel) to jump off. The kids got more and more daring and they had such a fun time continually jumping into the deep pools. There was also a swim through, where they jumped into a deep hole then they had to swim underwater through a narrow opening into one of the main pools.
• Visited Ferny Gully- a small swimming hole and series of little waterfalls. Again, this is not on any of the maps, and is not signposted, but we met a man who works with the Kakadu rangers and he told us about it.
• Swam in the icy cold water at Moline Rockhole – due to the positioning of the waterhole and the tall rocks around the side this rock hole doesn’t get much sun so is very cold- which was actually quite lovely as it was super hot when we were there.
• Explored the displays at the Warradjan and Bowali Visitor Centres and learnt about the language, culture and beliefs of the traditional Indigenous people of the area, as well as the impact and changes since Balanda (non-Aboriginal people) came to Kakadu. We also learnt about the many unique plants and animals within the park.
• Looked on in excitement and awe as we witnessed (up close) a crocodile eating a snake whilst on a sunrise cruise along the South Alligator River. We saw so many crocodiles and a wonderful array of birds. I have a lot of great photos so will do a separate blog post for the photos from the cruise.
• Marvelled at the well-preserved rock art at Nourlangie and Ubirr, chronicling the history of the local tribes and recording the changes in the landscape over thousands of years, including the first European contact. Some of the art at Nourlangie was so clear, as it had been painted under large rock shelters within huge crevices in the rocky mountains, so had not been impacted at all by the weather.
• Spotted crocodiles at Cahills Crossing – there were so many cruising around and basking in the sun on the banks of the East Alligator River.

As we drove, hiked, boated and swam our way around the park we could really appreciate why Kakadu is recognised by UNESCO World Heritage for its natural and cultural wonders. It is a stunning place with such diverse landscapes (there are actually 6 distinct landscapes and habitats within the park) full of an array of wildlife and alive with the spirits of the Bininj and Mungguy people who have lived on this land for tens of thousands of years. 

A refreshing morning dip in one of the rockpools along Upper Ikoymarrwa Falls

Muguk Falls - also known as Barramundi Gorge (we saw heaps of barramundi).

The next group of photos are from our time enjoying the upper pools (on top of the waterfall) at Muguk.

These videos are from the swim through that the kids loved- Emilia took her underwater camera to get a video of the experience.

Just chillin' on top of a waterfall!!

In the late afternoon, after we got cold from swimming, it was lovely to lay on the warm rocks.

The next group of photos and videos show Jackson, Emilia and Daniel doing daring jumps into the plunge pools at the top of Maguk Falls. I preferred to watch their antics from the safety of the water!

Daniel wasn't going to let the kids have all the fun - while we were swimming around he secretly climbed up to a rock even higher than the kids had been jumping from! We actually have a similar picture of him from the last time we were here in 2016.

Looking out over the waterfall

We stayed at the upper pools until nearly sunset, so the bottom pools were also empty (they are very popular so get quite busy during the day).

Hiking back after our late afternoon swim

Some drone footage of the spectacular upper pools.

Floating in the cool water at Ferny Gully rock pools

Ferny Gully rock pools - the fly chose a very annoying time to land on my lip!!!

Moline rock hole - the water is super cold in this pool.

Once a tour group left and we were lucky enough to have the stunning Moline rockhole to ourselves

The next group of photos are from our early morning hike to the plateau above Twin Falls. You are not allowed at the bottom of Twin Falls anymore, so this walk is the closet you can get. It was a stunning walk through the ancient sandstone to the top of the falls, then along a small creek with heaps of pools. We had breakfast up the top of the falls, then a refreshing swim at a pool near the end of the walk.

Panoramic view of the top of the falls - what a special place to have breakfast!!

I loved the different textures in the rocks on top of Twin Falls

Daniel climbed over the other side of the top area to get a photo from a different perspective

The scenery was so spectacular - I particularly loved the rock formations, especially this rock teetering on the edge.

Some of the pools along the walk at the top of the falls.

Ready for a swim

Jackson ended up with blisters as he hadn't worn his new boots in enough- he did the whole walk back (3kms) in bare feet (much to the astonishment of two Swiss tourists we walked past!).

The stunning view on the way down.

The waterfall at Jim Jim Falls was only just flowing - but it still looked incredible laying on your back and looking up, the water seemed to flow over the rocks in slow motion. The water was super cold, due to the high cliffs surrounding the pool, but it was still a lovely swim to the falls and back.

The kids on the rock in front give an idea of how high the walls of the cliffs surrounding the plunge pool at Jim Jim falls are.

Rock art at Nourlangie- depicting the Lightning Man (a very important being in Indigenous culture)

Enjoying the rocky landscape near the Nourlangie rock art site

Enjoying the picturesque landscape in the northern section of the park (from a lookout at the Ubirr rock art site)

Some of the incredibly well preserved rock art at Ubirr.

One of the many crocodiles cruising along the river at Cahills Crossing.