Arnhem Land- part 3 of 3, the last 6 nights

Arnhem Land, NT – part 3 of 3. The last 6 days

Friday 28th July- Thursday 3rd August

The camping and day use areas in East Arnhem Land

Day 13/14 – Rainbow Cliff

We got the pick of the campsites at Rainbow Cliff – by ourselves on top of a rocky cliff, looking out onto the ocean. We were facing west so we got to watch the sunset while we ate dinner – it was spectacular. It was extremely hot for the 2 days we were there though and I found it very hard to resist swimming in the sea. However, once a local indigenous man told us about the crocodile tracks he’d seen and explained how big the crocodile whose tracks they were would have been, I lost the urge to swim! Both mornings we were there we walked along the beach to the rainbow shaped cliff that gives this place it’s name- it is a stunning rock formation with different coloured layers of sandstone that form the white, pink and red coloured rainbow. The boys also fished in the nearby inlet and Daniel got a Mangrove Jack – it tasted great barbecued whole on the campfire. We tried to go spotlighting at the inlet to see if we could spot any crocodiles – we saw one set of eyes which was enough for me as I found the whole thing quite scary! 

The beach near our campsite at Rainbow Cliff

Cooking up some more cherabin and red claw that they caught at Goanna Lagoon

What a gorgeous location for a bit of Suduko!

Our dinner spot!

The Mangrove Jack he just caught at the inlet - it was delicious.

Early morning walks along the beach to see Rainbow Cliff.

Our campsite is in the small clearing on the cliffs - such a gorgeous spot.

The multi-coloured sandstone of Rainbow Cliff- you can see the cliff clearly from the beach at Nhulunbuy so you can see how it would be a marker for anyone at sea.

We got to watch a few pods of dolphins chasing fish, and a few birds trying to get the fish they missed, as we ate our breakfast!

Rainbow Cliff

Some of the many crabs he caught to use as bait (poor crabs).

Below are the tracks from a big saltwater crocodile. A local told us about them and he warned the boys not to get too close to the edge of the inlet when they were fishing. You could clearly see where the crocodile had climbed up the sand and into the mangroves, before going back down into the ocean.

The crocodile tracks from above (mixed with our footprints!).

The position of the clouds made for an awesome sunrise.

Emilia and her pets for the day! At one point one of the lizards jumped off her lap (where they were sitting while she was reading) and a bird swooped down, Emilia watched in horror as the bird went right for her lizard. Thankfully the lizard dropped it's tail and survived. Emilia said it was pretty incredible to see.

Day 15/16- Gove Boat Club

The weather was so much better this time we stayed at the Gove Boat Club, compared to last week. After exploring the beach and inlet along Crocodile Creek on our way into the campground, we spent Sunday afternoon enjoying a few cold beers and a delicious dinner with fellow campers whilst the kids had a ball playing with their kids. On Monday the boys left early on their fishing charter whilst Emilia and I went into Nhulunbuy and wandered along Wirraway Beach to Cape Wirraway (we could see Rainbow Cliff from the point) then climbed up the Roy Marika lookout to enjoy the view over the town and the sea. The boys got back about 1.30pm, exhausted but very pleased with their catch. They got 2 Dhufish, 1 Nannygai, 1 Spanish Mackerel and a Coral Trout- a great haul of delicious fish. They both slept well that night!!

A sight that is quite incongruous with the pristine beach- the old Rio Tinto aluminium refinery that is currently being pulled down. It was a huge refinery, set on the Gove Peninsula. Rio Tinto will only be mining in the area for about another 4-5 years, and the closure is already prompting lots of discussion about the future of Nhulunbuy, as so many residents are employees. We will see what eventuates.

We wandered along the beach near Crocodile Creek looking for mermaid dollars...

...and we we found a few huge, intact ones.

Full of excitement, they embarked on the fishing charter just after sunrise.

Catch No.1- a big Dhufish

Catch No.2 - another Dhufish.

Attempting to reel in the shark he'd hooked on.

Jackson actually split the front of his shorts open while trying to reel the shark in!!

The haul from the 6 people on the charter - Jackson and Daniel got 5 of these (which included two of the big Dhufish on the left and the Mackerel on the right).

It was a very successful morning!

Emilia and I on the beach and dune walk we did while the boys were on the charter.

One of the huge cane toads Jackson killed at the Gove Boat Club.

Day 17- Cato River Campground and Waterfall

Some campers we’d met at the Boat Club recommended Cato River and we’re glad we made the effort to come out as it was great. We had the whole campground to ourselves and we spent the afternoon enjoying the nearby waterfall. The other highlight was watching thousands of bats fly overhead just as the sun was setting – it was incredible.

We had a bit of a restless sleep as the moon seemed extra bright (as it was nearly full moon) and it felt like a spotlight was shining into the tent!

We left reasonably early the next morning as we had a big drive ahead of us, but we stopped within 30 minutes as there was a dead water buffalo on the side of the road. It had been dead long enough that Daniel could fairly easily remove the head – so we then had a buffalo skull on the roof rack (however it still had some skin on it, so it smelt VERY, VERY bad!).

Cato Waterfall- just us and cool, flowing water- magic.

After swimming in the waterfall we relaxed on the rocks with our books- what a lovely way to spend a hot afternoon.

The thousands of bats...so incredible to see.

We awoke to a cool misty morning (but it was hot again as soon as the sun rose!).

Daniel collecting the buffalo head - it smelt so bad, even from inside the car.

Day 18- Mainoru Station

After a 5 hour drive (with only one short toilet stop) we were all very relieved to get out of the car at the picturesque Mainoru Station campground. We spent the afternoon enjoying their swimming hole, where the kids and Daniel had a blast jumping off the rocks whilst I floated in the cool water, surrounded by lilies. In the early evening we relaxed by the river and made the most of the availability of cold beer (we didn’t take any alcohol with us to Arnhem Land as we didn’t have the room and decided not to bother getting the permit), whilst chatting with some other campers. It was a lovely ending to a great trip.

The swimming hole was so much fun!

Jackson with one of the cherabin he caught. Poor Daniel had a fall putting one of the nets in and landed right in the middle of a pandanus bush - Emilia and I spent about half an hour picking all the prickles out of his arms and back.

The buffalo skull after Daniel cleaned it up - it still smells a bit but it should get better once it dries out more (hopefully). It's a very cool souvenir from our Arnhem Land adventure!!

Over the 18 nights we spent in Arnhem Land, we ended up doing 1750 kms on gravel road- so we now have red dust EVERYWHERE!! It was worth it though as our time in Arnhem Land was very special- it is such a unique and ruggedly beautiful place and I am very glad we made the effort to come up here.