4 Stray Katz: An abundance of abs - indulging in green-lipped abalone at Wharton Beach

Duke of Orleans and Esperance

Monday 6^th – Saturday 11^th February

The Duke of Orleans Caravan Park is about 60km east of Esperance, along a stretch of remote, and particularly spectacular, coast. The most well-known beach in the area (because it is so beautiful) is Wharton Beach- a white sandy bay, 4km long, with turquoise water that is impossible to resist. On our first night we enjoyed a magical sunset over the calm bay whilst watching a few dolphins dive for fish – it was beautiful. We spent the next morning (before the wind picked up) back at Wharton Beach; boogie boarding, surfing and jumping waves. Emilia and I were lucky enough to be in the water when 3 dolphins swam close by. They caught a wave right in front of us, then rode it until then were only a few metres away – it was incredible. We explored a few of the other remote beaches, but, in our opinion, nothing we saw surpassed Wharton Beach.

The next day we went to Little Wharton Beach where Daniel, Jackson and Andrew (a guy we’d met at Cape Richie that was camping near us again) kayaked over to an island and went diving for green lipped abalone. Emilia and I walked along the rocks and found a few little secluded bays, before we noticed the boys were already kayaking back so we quickly rock hopped back as we had the car keys. They’d each gotten their bag limit in record time as the visibility was so good, the water was calm and the abalone were plentiful. We went back to Wharton Beach hoping for some more fun on the boogie boards, but the water was exceptionally calm. Instead, Jackson and I, then Jackson and Daniel, went for a snorkel and Emilia built sandcastles (using the skills she learnt about sand sculpting in Perth). Jackson and I didn’t see too much, however the water was FULL of small jellyfish, which freaked me out a bit! Jackson assured me they were not harmful, and we ended up touching heaps (it was impossible to swim without touching them) so they must have been harmless!! That afternoon we drove to Victoria Harbour (along Wharton Beach then between some huge sand dunes that are a part of the most easterly section of Cape Le Grand NP) with Andrew and his wife Anne. We explored the rocks at each end of the beach and discovered a huge dugite (a very venomous snake) between some of the large boulders- we stayed well out of its way!. After watching the waves crash on the rocks for awhile, we all went for a swim (even though the weather wasn’t great, the water was so inviting). It was so calm that I spent ages floating on my back looking up at the clouds once everyone had gone back to shore, it was so peaceful.

Jackson had a funny/unexpected encounter when we were back at the caravan park. He saw a guy with a fishing bucket and went up to ask him what he’d caught. The guy showed him the bucket and to Jackson’s surprise there was a small penguin in it!! Apparently there is a penguin colony at Little Wharton Beach and this penguin had gotten lost and washed up on a beach on the other side of the headland, and they were on their way to return him/her/it to Little Wharton Beach. The rest of us were all so disappointed we didn’t get to see the penguin- Jackson was definitely in the right place at the right time!

Before we left the next morning the boys couldn’t resist going in for another feed of abalone (we had the other ones for dinner the night before and they were incredible – even better than the brown lipped abalone). The water was calm and the visibility was great so Jackson hopped in and managed to get his first abalone (it is quite a skill to dislodge them from the rock they are suctioned on to without damaging them). He proudly showed off the large, and very beautiful shell, from the one he caught when they got back to camp.

After packing up we headed back to Esperance for a few nights (as that is all I could get again as it is still so busy here). We spent the afternoon catching up on work/blogs/errands and walking/scootering/roller-skating to the skate park and the adventure playground. The next morning we took advantage of the sunshine and low winds to visit a few more beaches- the beaches down this way are all so amazing, I couldn’t get enough. First up was Twilight Beach (the beach that features on the towel I got for my birthday). We swam out to one of the huge boulders in the ocean, and we were able to climb up on the rocks and explore- the kids and Daniel jumped across onto another rock, but I was too chicken and didn’t think I’d make it over the gap! After that we just swam and enjoyed the beach. Next up was West Beach where we jumped the waves and resisted the current, it was fun but we had to be careful as the pull was very strong. That afternoon was cleaning time! We did several loads of washing and cleaned out the car and van ready for the big journey across the Nullarbor. We’ve spent nearly 5 months in WA and are a bit sad to leave. We have seen heaps and gone to so many amazing places, but it still seems like there is so much that we’ve missed- we’ll just have to plan for another trip in the future!!!

Enjoying an early morning swim at Picnic Beach in Esperance, before grocery shopping and heading out to Duke of Orleans Beach.

Emilia didn't fancy a swim so sat on the rocks and took photos.

Sunset over Wharton Beach- a magical way to spend our first night out here.

There is plenty of room on the beach, and you can bring your car down. We sat on the back of the car and made the most of the great view.

Wharton Beach the next day- the waves were just right for us.

There was quite a bit of beach foam and the kids mixed it with extra sand to make their own version of 'fluffy slime', which they covered themselves with (see below). Quite disgusting, but they had a fabulous time.

Kayaking over to the island on the hunt for abalone.

While the boys went diving Emilia and I walked up to Little Wharton Beach.....

...then over some more rocks to another bay.

3 of the 5 green lipped abalone Daniel got (2 are hiding underneath)

Jackson was in charge of the kayak and putting the abalone in the catch bag when Daniel brought them up- he was pretty pleased with the haul.

Some videos of the abalone - they are so interesting to watch as they manoeuver themselves to try to suck on to something.

Lifting the kayak on and off the roof of the car is a great workout!!

Going for a snorkel along the rocks at Wharton Beach - Jackson had already been out with me, but he loves it so much he was keen to go again.

Exploring the rocks at the end of Victoria Harbour.

Perfecting her cartwheeling skills

Although the weather wasn't too nice we all (except Emilia) braved the cold water for a swim (Jackson and I hadn't quite had the courage to put our arms in yet when this photo was taken!).

Once I was in, it was amazing and I didn't want to get out.

His first abalone- Jackson and the green lipped abalone he discovered and got off the rocks all by himself- a great achievement that he was very proud of (rightly so).

They'd already shucked the abalone when they came back to camp - he is definitely keeping this shell. It is a beautiful shell and a great reminder of the first abalone he got himself.