Isabella Falls, near Cooktown.
Friday 21st - Sunday 23rd July
We managed to score a secluded campsite right next to a little stream that ran into the lovely Isabella Falls, so our one night stay turned into two. It worked out well as the sandfly bites I'd gotten at Cooktown really flared up and the only way I could relieve the incessant itch was to soak in the cool water. After a rough night using every inch of self control trying not to itch, I headed into Cooktown to see what relief I could get. The pharmacist helped me out with a bag full of antihistamines (for day and night) and some additional creams to ease the itch. Once back at the falls we spent the afternoon relaxing at camp (making the most of the hammock) and enjoying the falls. After one last swim in the morning we headed off. We did contemplate staying another night at it was such a lovely place, but all decided we were ready to start our adventure to Cape York.
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Soaking my bites in the soothing water. |
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We all enjoyed swimming against the current towards the waterfall...... |
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...then diving in and letting the current propel us down the river. |
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There was so much cold misty water getting us whilst we posed for this photo. |
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Our idyllic campsite by a babbling brook. |
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Just a few of my 70+ sandfly bites. Dot to dot anyone? |
Artemis Station, just off the Peninsula Development Road
Sunday 24th July
Upon leaving Isabella Falls we encountered our first section
of rough road, on the way to Laura via Lakeland National Park and the Old Laura
Homestead (where we stopped to have a look). The first casualty of the rough
FNQ roads was the yoghurt. I had a very unwelcome surprise when I opened the
fridge for lunch at Laura – there was yoghurt oozing everywhere! After a good
30 minutes cleaning, the remaining yoghurt got tightly secured with 3 elastic
bands and it got prime position on the door lest it decide to try to lay down
again!
We’d spoken to people at Laura whose microwave had come
unsecured on their way to the Cape, so Daniel decided to check ours once we
arrived at Artemis Station. Lucky he did, as the flashing on the front had
already broken- so he removed the microwave (which we’d only used a few times
in 5 months) and we left it at the station. The van is now lighter, and we have
another storage space!!
So Artemis Station turned out to be a great overnighter. The
owners were lovely and they regaled us with some funny stories of bringing up,
and home-schooling, their kids (who are now in their 30s) on the station. Sue
did 15 years of home-schooling, as their children were born several years apart.
The two funniest stories were of how one of their sons would not stop talking
or moving during lessons so he ended up gagged and had to sit on a oil drum
full of sand to stop him fidgeting! They also told us how they’d chained one of
their sons to a tree when he wouldn’t stop biting- ‘he was behaving like a dog so we treated him
like one’! We all had a good laugh at the unconventional parenting methods they
had to resort to and they were happy to report that no harm was done as their
family is all still close (one of their sons actually lives on the station with
his wife and helps run the property).
Jackson and Emilia had a great time feeding the goats, pigs,
chickens and ducks with Sue that evening, and she even let them collect
passionfruit, starfruit, papayas, lemons and eggs, so we left there fully stocked up. The
kids also enjoyed the novelty of hot water via a ‘donkey’, and Jackson kept the
fire stoked so everyone had hot water.
All in all it was a great stopover.
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Old Laura Homestead. I can't imagine how hard it would have been living out here in the late 1800's |
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Feeding the pushy goats at Artemis Station. |
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They got very friendly!! |
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Watching the sunset from our campsite at Artemis Station. |
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We did a sunrise walk in the property and marvelled at all the huge termite mounds. |
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Out first taste of starfruit - you can see what it is named that! |
Coen Creek
Monday 25th- Tuesday 26th July
We’d been told about this free camp by a few people, and had
been warned to get there early as it was super popular. We could see why- you
can camp right on the edge of Coen Creek, a crystal-clear, flowing creek with
either a pebbly or sandy base, and with a few deep swimming holes. It was
lovely.
With the van we couldn’t cross over the creek to the best
camping spots, but we still scored a great spot right near the river crossing, so we could watch everyone else cross, and near a rope swing and a deep
swimming hole. We even had phone reception as we were only 5 minutes from Coen
township- perfect for me as I could catch up on some work.
It was on the first night here that we decided it was time
to leave the van. We were very envious of the campers on the other, nicer, side
of the creek and were also wary that the further up we took the van the more
chance we had of doing damage. The day here gave us some time to get things
prepared for doing the rest of Cape York without the caravan. The kids made
some friends and they spent the afternoon swimming and playing on the rope swing
with them whilst we got things ready.
While swimming with the kids Daniel spotted a snake
slithering through the water. He followed it (of course!) and was amazed that
it stayed under water for at least 15 minutes. This gave me and a few fellow
campers ample time to wade over and see it. None of us realised snakes could
stay under water that long.
It was a really wonderful spot and we’re grateful to Coen
for providing and maintaining it.
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Jackson went off to collect firewood and found a hessian bag that made the job much easier - very resourceful of him! |
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Just before we enjoyed the deep swimming hole. |
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The rope swing was a hit with the kids (and alot of dads too!). |
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Looking towards our caravan from the lovely Coen Creek. |
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