Our last 5 days in the van before we left it behind to 'rough it' in the tent.

Isabella Falls, near Cooktown.

Friday 21st - Sunday 23rd July

We managed to score a secluded campsite right next to a little stream that ran into the lovely Isabella Falls, so our one night stay turned into two. It worked out well as the sandfly bites I'd gotten at Cooktown really flared up and the only way I could relieve the incessant itch was to soak in the cool water. After a rough night using every inch of self control trying not to itch, I headed into Cooktown to see what relief I could get. The pharmacist helped me out with a bag full of antihistamines (for day and night) and some additional creams to ease the itch. Once back at the falls we spent the afternoon relaxing at camp (making the most of the hammock) and enjoying the falls. After one last swim in the morning we headed off. We did contemplate staying another night at it was such a lovely place, but all decided we were ready to start our adventure to Cape York.

Soaking my bites in the soothing water.

We all enjoyed swimming against the current towards the waterfall......

...then diving in and letting the current propel us down the river.

There was so much cold misty water getting us whilst we posed for this photo.

Our idyllic campsite by a babbling brook.

Just a few of my 70+ sandfly bites. Dot to dot anyone?

Artemis Station, just off the Peninsula Development Road

Sunday 24^th July

Upon leaving Isabella Falls we encountered our first section of rough road, on the way to Laura via Lakeland National Park and the Old Laura Homestead (where we stopped to have a look). The first casualty of the rough FNQ roads was the yoghurt. I had a very unwelcome surprise when I opened the fridge for lunch at Laura – there was yoghurt oozing everywhere! After a good 30 minutes cleaning, the remaining yoghurt got tightly secured with 3 elastic bands and it got prime position on the door lest it decide to try to lay down again!

We’d spoken to people at Laura whose microwave had come unsecured on their way to the Cape, so Daniel decided to check ours once we arrived at Artemis Station. Lucky he did, as the flashing on the front had already broken- so he removed the microwave (which we’d only used a few times in 5 months) and we left it at the station. The van is now lighter, and we have another storage space!!

So Artemis Station turned out to be a great overnighter. The owners were lovely and they regaled us with some funny stories of bringing up, and home-schooling, their kids (who are now in their 30s) on the station. Sue did 15 years of home-schooling, as their children were born several years apart. The two funniest stories were of how one of their sons would not stop talking or moving during lessons so he ended up gagged and had to sit on a oil drum full of sand to stop him fidgeting! They also told us how they’d chained one of their sons to a tree when he wouldn’t stop biting-  ‘he was behaving like a dog so we treated him like one’! We all had a good laugh at the unconventional parenting methods they had to resort to and they were happy to report that no harm was done as their family is all still close (one of their sons actually lives on the station with his wife and helps run the property).

Jackson and Emilia had a great time feeding the goats, pigs, chickens and ducks with Sue that evening, and she even let them collect passionfruit, starfruit, papayas, lemons and eggs, so we left there fully stocked up. The kids also enjoyed the novelty of hot water via a ‘donkey’, and Jackson kept the fire stoked so everyone had hot water.

All in all it was a great stopover.

Old Laura Homestead. I can't imagine how hard it would have been living out here in the late 1800's

Feeding the pushy goats at Artemis Station.

They got very friendly!!

Watching the sunset from our campsite at Artemis Station.

We did a sunrise walk in the property and marvelled at all the huge termite mounds.

Out first taste of starfruit - you can see what it is named that!

Coen Creek

Monday 25^th- Tuesday 26^th July

We’d been told about this free camp by a few people, and had been warned to get there early as it was super popular. We could see why- you can camp right on the edge of Coen Creek, a crystal-clear, flowing creek with either a pebbly or sandy base, and with a few deep swimming holes. It was lovely.

With the van we couldn’t cross over the creek to the best camping spots, but we still scored a great spot right near the river crossing, so we could watch everyone else cross, and near a rope swing and a deep swimming hole. We even had phone reception as we were only 5 minutes from Coen township- perfect for me as I could catch up on some work.

It was on the first night here that we decided it was time to leave the van. We were very envious of the campers on the other, nicer, side of the creek and were also wary that the further up we took the van the more chance we had of doing damage. The day here gave us some time to get things prepared for doing the rest of Cape York without the caravan. The kids made some friends and they spent the afternoon swimming and playing on the rope swing with them whilst we got things ready.

While swimming with the kids Daniel spotted a snake slithering through the water. He followed it (of course!) and was amazed that it stayed under water for at least 15 minutes. This gave me and a few fellow campers ample time to wade over and see it. None of us realised snakes could stay under water that long.

It was a really wonderful spot and we’re grateful to Coen for providing and maintaining it.

Jackson went off to collect firewood and found a hessian bag that made the job much easier - very resourceful of him!

Just before we enjoyed the deep swimming hole.

The rope swing was a hit with the kids (and alot of dads too!).

Looking towards our caravan from the lovely Coen Creek.