Fireflies and Frenchman's Guacamole

Kutini- Payamu (Iron Range) National Park - Wednesday 27th – Friday 29th July

Frenchman’s Track - Friday 29th July

Bramwell Station - Saturday 30th July

We said goodbye to the caravan at Archer River Roadhouse then headed towards Iron Range National Park – fully loaded up and ready for adventure.

The campground at Chilli Beach (the major attraction of Iron Range NP) was fully booked out so we settled on a campground in the rainforest. Our initial disappointment at the location of the camp area (as well as the fact it was a 750m walk to the nearest toilet) was negated once darkness fell and the fireflies twinkled in the sky. They were so beautiful to watch and we even got to see one up close when it landed on the ground. They look just like a regular bug but when they open their wings their bum glows! We were also lucky enough to see a vibrant green tree frog when we went for a walk to the river (to see if we could spot any crocodiles). Our wildlife encounters didn’t spot there – Emilia nearly stepped on a snake walking up the road to the toilet. It had been run over so Daniel was going to put it out of its misery but when he touched it with a stick, it slithered away. Hopefully it recovered as it didn’t look too well. We also saw a huge python and Jackson disturbed a snake in the grass near our camp. However the funniest encounter we had with an animal was on the second night. Everyone was already in the tent and I was just finishing brushing my teeth. As I went to put my toothbrush away I heard a rustling in the bag that held the bread, eggs and chips. Of course I wasn’t brave enough to do anything so I just took a big step back and held my breath. Out popped a head! ‘DANIEL…I NEED YOU HERE RIGHT NOW,’ I screamed, as I was certain it was a snake. As Daniel got out of the tent (in his jocks) the critter jumped out of the bag and into the car. It was not a snake…just a native bush rat (but quite a big one so I felt justified in my angst!). Well Jackson isn’t one to let something interesting pass him by, so he came out of the tent (in his jocks as well) to help Daniel. So we had Daniel and Jackson (in their jocks), with head torches on, going from door to door, lifting up seats and peering down the crevices trying to find the elusive bush rat, who kept disappearing whenever they spotted him. Ten minutes and many expletives later, Daniel finally caught him in one of the drawers and sent him off into the bush (hopefully not to return). And the whole time, I just stood a few meters back holding a torch!!

On the second day there we did a day trip to Portland Roads and Chilli Beach. Portland Roads is a small community that was once the site of a large port where Allied Forces loaded supplies for the navy and air force fighting in Rabaul. We learnt (when we visited the Lockhart Airstrip (which was made for WW2 allied planes) that there were around 7000 US troops stationed in the area and that they chose this area as the rainforest provided great coverage whilst being close to the port (at Portland Roads). The boys decided to try their luck flicking a few lures off the rocks, whilst Emilia and I wandered around and read the history. Twenty minutes later back they came with a huge Queenfish!! We ate like kings that night.

Chilli Beach is a lovely long sandy beach with coconut palms separating the forest from the beach. We can see why it is so popular, however at the moment (and apparently this happens quite often), the beach is lined with SO MUCH rubbish- it was actually quite heartbreaking. Most of the rubbish is washed in from the ocean from other countries. Each year they clean up over 5 tonnes from the 6.5km stretch of beach, which is just such an extraordinary amount.  The kids wandered through and couldn’t believe how many lighters, toothbrushes and thongs they saw. They picked up a bucketful of rubbish to add to the pile in the campground that everyone had collected.

There were lots of small fires on our way into the national park, some of them were close to the road and you could feel the heat as we drove past.

Daniel discovered this little (well he was actually quite big) guy on our first night. Green tree frogs are one of his favourite animal species so that made the day for him.

Low tide at Portland Roads.

What a catch! Their fishing expedition wasn't going to plan after Daniel had to fish Jackson's hat out of the ocean, then Daniel hooked this Giant Queenie so they were all smiles when they came back.

Chilli Beach - a long, wide beach with white sand and palm trees. Super windy though - as you can see from the palm trees.

Daniel braved the windy weather as we'd heard green coconuts were the best, and he decided he wanted to find out for himself. After a couple of failed attempts, he used some of the rope lying around the beach, along with some muscle power........

...and was successful. The water in the green coconut was fizzy, which was surprising. The coconut flesh was so tender and delicious, and we enjoyed it on our breakfasts for the next week.

Collecting some of the mountains of rubbish washed up from other countries. So many of the beaches up here have a lot of rubbish on them - it is really sad.

The rubbish consisted of heaps of broken thongs, hundreds of lighters and toothbrushes and so many plastic bottles.

Art using reclaimed rubbish!

The giant swing was a hit.

This was the best climbing tree any of us have ever seen.

The day we left we went to Lockhart River (quite a large community) to check out the beach. It was blowing a gale so we just had a short stop and the kids collected shells.  After a quick stop to see Mount Tozer we began the ‘Frenchman’s Track’. I had originally suggested it as it looked like a shortcut – not knowing it was a difficult 4wd track!

At Lockhart River Airport - formerly Gordon Strip, an air strip used by American bombers in WW2

There were so many shells on Quintel Beach at Lockhart River.

On a track trying to find a hidden waterhole. We didn't find the waterhole but found so many big termite mounds.

And another abandoned car. Down every bush track up here there is inevitably a stripped and burnt out car!

Mt Tozer- an important mountain to the local Kukuu Ya’u people.

Frenchman's Track

We did the first 11kms easily and we enjoyed the changing landscape along the way. We reached the first river crossing, the Pascoe River, at lunchtime and I was definitely a bit stressed when I saw the steep entry and exit and the depth and flow of the river. Daniel did a walkthrough and was a bit unsure, without a second vehicle and some people who knew what they were doing to help out, it was probably a bit risky (I was disappointed for him and the kids but secretly relived for myself). Just as we were about to turn back 2 vehicles pulled up. After a chat with them and another walkthrough the decision was made and they were going to help us through. I volunteered to video, which was a great choice for me as I would’ve been terrified on the climb back up to the track! The car got through the river but the track out was steep and super muddy and some very skilled driving, and some directions from the other guys, was needed to get the car safely to the top. A bit of water got in the car (much to Jackson’s delight) so we had wet footmats and all the things in our doors were a bit worse for wear! It was certainly a bit of a full-on start for me!

We had hoped for a nice campsite near a river along the track, but unfortunately we didn’t find any by 5pm so we just set up camp in a small clearing off a side track. It was here that I learnt a quick way to make guacamole – simply take your avocado for a drive along a 4wd track, open it, add a little salt, pepper and lime juice- voila! You don’t even need to mash it!!

We left early the next day and, of course, we discovered great camping on a river only a little bit up the track!! The kids learnt about ‘Murphy’s Law’ that morning. The rest of the river crossings were reasonably uneventful and we were able to do them without a support crew. The car ended up a bit worse for wear after one crossing though, but Daniel has been able to punch the panel back in to place. Jackson thought it was an absolute hoot. He really enjoys the challenging sections and the river crossing, where he scopes it out with Daniel and sits in the car cheering away. Emilia likes the excitement of the river crossings, just not the steep sections where the car feels like it is going to tip.

After crossing the Wenlock River we joined back up with the Peninsula Development Road (PDR) and headed to Bramwell Station for a well needed shower. That night they had entertainment on so, after a very interesting talk about the history of the station, we listened to a great singer (who was also a comedian – thank god some of the jokes went over the kids’ heads) then listened to a pretty average Rod Stewart impersonator. We left after a few songs as we were hoping to get a reasonably early start on the Old Telegraph Track in the morning.

It was a very eventful first four nights in the tent and we’re all excited for the Old Telegraph Track (** I am not really excited about the four wheel driving (like the others are) – just the lovely rivers and picturesque landscapes, but I know it will be a memorable adventure!)

The signpost to signal the start of the track!

We ended up quite high up on a rocky section on the first part of the track.

To cross or not to cross??? There was a lot of discussion with all the other drivers as to which way to cross the Pascoe River, and if we should do it.

We ended up crossing (though I swam across and did the video). I have edited the video so it was small enough to upload, but on the full video, after Jackson explains how much water got in the car, you can hear me screaming 'pick up my handbag, pick up my handbag!'

The muddy bog hole that had a surprise tree root in it.

Whoops. Someone is impressed with the panel damage though.

The final crossing- the Wenlock River. We made it!