Learning from a local- Mimbi Caves

Mimbi Caves, The Kimberley, WA

Sunday 11th September

We were lucky enough to go on a tour of Mimbi Caves with local Gooniyandi man Harrison. The caves were his childhood playground so he had lots of stories about the significance of this area to share with us. Aboriginal people have inhabited this part of the Kimberley for more than 40,000 years (determined by radiocarbon dating on ancient fireplaces) so the area is steeped in culture. The caves were once part of a reef system so there are fossils in many of the rocks, and tunnels and crevices everywhere. The whole cave system stretches for about 300km, with only a few areas accessible to the general population. We all thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to explore this section of the caves and get an insight into the local beliefs and customs.

After the tour we were given permission to visit Galeru Gorge, up near the community. It was lovely and we had the whole place to ourselves. As well as swimming in the silky cool water, a highlight was the discovery of a freshwater crocodile jaw (complete with teeth). We collected all the teeth we could find and have taken the jaw as a memento.

We would definitely recommend visiting Mimbi Caves and also camping at the excellent campground they have built nearby. We were impressed at how well the camp was set up and the location afforded us wonderful views of the nearby rocky mountain range.

Although we were only there for about 24 hours we had a very memorable time. Jackson listened intently when Harrison explained the way Indigenous people make use of different parts of plants for various means, and that evening he made ‘glue’ from dried up and ground boab nut mixed with water, before running his own ‘tour’ to show us how!

The pictures give more of an insight into this unique area, although none really truly capture the beauty and spiritual feeling of the place.

One of the many wildflowers around the rocky mountain range on the walk we did next to the Mimbi campground.

Enjoying the colours on the other mountain range, whilst Jackson cooked us dinner.

We went on a morning walk and explored the area around the campsite.

Off to explore the caves with our guide, Harrison.

Harrison prepared a smoking ceremony for us to welcome us onto the land. After he added the wet gum leaves and the fire was smoking well, we all had to walk around the fire place and let the smoke cover us.

The rock formations were so interesting- it felt like we were in a unique city.

A rock chess set made by a group of fossickers who set up camp in the caves in the 1980s. They also built a hut and apparently lived there for a number of months until Harrison's uncle discovered them and chased them off the land!

Going in the first cave, Jackson was very keen!

There was a creek flowing through the cave system that kept it very lovely and cool

Some of the rocks were such an interesting shape and texture - this one was very sharp.

Rock art depiciting the Rain Man and the good and evil spirits (which are separated by the crack in the rock as they can't be near each other). Rain man is the only one who can hold back the evil spirit. 

Rock hopping out of the first cave

The swimming hole in the cave where the 4 of us braved the cold water (and the darkness) for a swim.

Safety First! We had to wear helmets into the second cave.

The calcite slowing dripping through the sandstone has created such an interesting effect.

Some of the impressive stalactites and stalagmites in the second cave we explored.

Jackson listening intently as Harrison explained how a python was living in the small waterhole a few weeks ago.

Jackson and Daniel climbed up into this crevice and discovered heaps of bats

Enjoying some damper and golden syrup.

Swimming out from the caves- it was a bit scary getting in the water in the dark inside the cave......

...but lovely once we got in.

The private locals' gorge (Galeru Gorge) we were given permission to swim in.

Ellendale Pool overnight stop, enroute to Broome

Monday 12th September

The lovely station owners have opened up a piece of their land right next to a permanent dam. The bird life was incredible, as were the lovely boab trees that were scattered around. This is where Jackson collected dried up boab nuts and ground the seed into a powder before, adding some water to make 'glue'.

Concentrating on the job!

Proudly displaying off the tools he used to make his bush glue.

The real Wolfe Creek- a big crater…not the home of a homicidal maniac (thankfully)

Wolfe Creek Crater, WA

Friday 9th September

When I hear 'Wolfe Creek', my brain immediately jumps to the 2005 horror film and this man (how do you go from Play School to slaying unwary backpackers???).

Thankfully though, we did not encounter 'Mick Taylor', star of Wolf Creek, whilst we were at Wolfe Creek National Park.

What we did encounter was something very impressive. A huge crater (the second largest in the world where meteorite fragments have been discovered) formed by a meteorite, travelling at 15km per second, crashing to Earth about 300,000 years ago. The crater is 880 metres in diameter and the depth is now about 20 metres (it used to be about 120m deep but has been filled in with desert sand over millions of years).

It is a 130km rough road into Wolfe Creek National Park, so we left the van at Halls Creek Caravan Park. We securely locked it and left the lights on as there is a crime spree against travellers at the moment in Halls Creek, driven by opportunistic young (around 10 year old) locals who are currently competing with each other for the most high stakes 'steal'. We were told of a recent theft of a campervan that was then taken for a joyride! As the kids are so young the Police don't have many choices for 'consequences' and many of the parents don't have the skills to know what to do with their unruly kids.

Anyway back to our adventures. We arrived about 3pm (as the weather was so hot we had only planned to spend the late afternoon, night and early morning out at the crater) and as we set up we discovered that we had forgotten the kids' bedding! We had both thought the other was packing it and hadn't checked. We had to improvise and use the picnic rug and the car window shade blinds for mattresses, then we shared the sleeping bags! Although we all had a rough sleep, it was well worth coming out to see.

We did the crater rim walk at about 5pm, so we could watch the sunset over the desert from up on the crater. Thankfully it was nearly a full moon as it was basically dark by the time we made it around the rim, and the moonlight was all we had to help us navigate the rocky track! We were up early in the morning (due to the bright, hot sun streaming into our tent from 5am!!) but this was the perfect time to climb down into the crater and walk to the centre. After spending some time wandering around marvelling at the uniqueness of this place, we had a basic breakfast, packed up and headed back to the van.

It was predicted to get to 37 degrees so, after collecting the van (that had thankfully not been broken in to), we drove out to Palm Springs, a swimming hole we remembered from our last trip. We spent most of the afternoon cooling off in the water before retreating early to our comfortable beds!

Admiring the crater on the afternoon we arrived (it was too hot to do the walk at this stage).

Climbing up ready to do the rim walk

Playing with the moon!

The light was gorgeous for the crater rim walk

Looking down into the crater, there is a circle of green vegetation that thrives due to the mineral rich soil down there.

It was a hot walk (even though we started at 5pm)

The pretty lilac flowers of the native cotton were in abundance in the National Park

We were about halfway around by this point, the sun had set about 15 minutes ago so the light was lovely

By the time we got 3/4 of the way around the light was fading- still beautiful but it was getting harder to navigate the rocky crater rim.

Nearing the end of the walk - quite dark now! Thankfully it was a full moon.

We slept with the fly off to enjoy the night sky- which then meant we were up with the sun!

Looking out to the crater wall from the middle.

The low sun gave us some cool shadows!

Climbing up the crater wall.

Last view from the top- although it was only 7am it was already VERY hot.

A quick bush shower before we left for the 2 hour drive back to Hall's Creek (and the van).

PALM SPRINGS

Jackson and the fish he caught in his net in the creek at Palm Springs (he let them all go after giving them a thorough examination).

Enjoying the swimming hole at Palm Springs (you can see our caravan over the back, it was a dusty spot but we were lucky to be able to camp so close to the water).

Relaxing with a drink and watching the rock change colour as the sun set.

We had the place to ourselves by late afternoon.

Jackson practised his howling as the full moon rose!

On alert at Wuggubun

Wuggubun Community Campground, WA

Wednesday 7th- Friday 9th September

After a big drive from Katherine, then a quick shop at Kununarra to replenish our fresh food (you can't bring any fresh fruit or vegetables over the border from NT to WA), we rolled into Wuggubun Campground about 3.30pm (which was actually 5pm NT time, due to the time change at the border). We were all quite exhausted after a big day driving and were ready just to relax and enjoy the serenity of the place. However, as we checked in, the camp hosts explained that the massive smoke clouds we had seen on the drive in were not controlled back burning, but bushfires that had the potential to cause havoc if the wind changed. The ranger had already been in to give them a briefing on the situation and a bulldozer was on its way to dig out some trenches near the entrance to the campground to create a fire break, just in case. We were advised that everything 'should' be fine but it would be advisable to camp near the rocky mountain on north side of camp, as that had recently been back burned so would be the safest spot. At this point none of us could fathom getting back into the car, and we felt confident that the rangers would give us all notice if the situation changed so we decided to stay and hope for the best. 

After a swim in the creek next to the campground, and some time to slow down and savour the incredible surroundings, we had all recovered from the big day. We were still closely watching the smoke in case the direction changed, but by the time we went to bed everything seemed okay (thankfully).

We decided to stay another night at Wuggubun as we all needed a rest day. We had a lovely day enjoying the creek, utilising the hammock and generally just relaxing. We only left the camp for half an hour to check out the nearby lookout -  it was great to have a day out of the car!!

Wuggubun means echidna in the local language and the Dreamtime story states that the echidna formed the ranges around Wuggubun when it was digging for food. The ranges have jagged marks all along them which are said to be gouged out by the echidna. There is a small, thriving community just beyond the campground, and one of the elders is assisting other indigenous communities to set up simple campgrounds like the one at Wuggubun in order to share the wonders of their land with others.

Arriving at WA, thankfully the quarantine check was quick and easy. We'd been driving since 7am so we were very excited when the time went back an hour and a half and suddenly we had more day left to get groceries and get to our campsite!

Cooling off in the creek at camp, we spent the days dipping in and out as it was about 35deg each day.

Giving Daniel a well needed massage after all the driving he's done...not a bad view!

Jackson made a friend and they spent hours playing in the creek and catching little fish.

Looking down on the campsite from a nearby lookout.

The other view from the lookout.

The campground was in a narrow valley, there was another rocky mountain range behind our van.

Leaving Wuggubun.