Getting up close with Crocodylus porosus (aka the Saltwater crocodile)

Darwin, NT

Friday 2nd - Tuesday 6th September

Darwin is a place both Daniel and I feel we could live, and by the end of our 4 days here both kids felt the same. The weather is great, the town is well set up and the whole place just has a nice feel to it. We did a few of the touristy things, in between catching up on some of the jobs we needed to get done and enjoying the pool and splashpark at the caravan park.

We had a fabulous time at Crocosaurus Cove, where we visited all the attractions and saw every presentation. Our highlights were:

• seeing several huge saltwater crocodiles getting fed
• feeding juvenile crocodiles using bamboo fishing rods with meat attached on the end
• watching a python eat a rat (whole)
• when the kids got to hold a python and a blue tongue lizard (Emilia built up the courage to hold the snake the second time it was on offer, whilst Jackson was right up the front both times!).
• watching a barramundi get fed (they suck their food in and make a very unusual noise)
• holding a baby crocodile 

After Crocosaurus Cove we headed to Mindil Beach Markets, where we enjoyed meandering through the market stalls before the difficult task of choosing what to eat for dinner from the many vendors displaying their tempting and delicious smelling food. We ate listening to live music before watching a great juggling act with our dessert. Both kids spent some of their pocket money on a memento and I got a few presents. It was a great day and night.

Monday consisted of more jobs and running around, then in the afternoon we headed over to the NT Museum and Art Gallery where we learnt about the devastating impact of Cyclone Tracy (including the sound room where you experience the roar of a cyclone) and viewed the winning pieces from the recent National Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Art Awards before heading to the saltwater lagoon for a swim. The kids couldn’t resist the appeal of the Aqua Zone course so, whilst I caught up on some work, Daniel and the kids exhausted themselves on the blow-up water park. They came back an hour later bright red, puffing and panting, but with huge smiles. That evening we had dinner while watching the sunset over the ocean at Sunset Beach (very aptly named!).

We left early in the morning, hoping to make it halfway between Katherine and the NT/QLD border…..however our water tank didn’t stick to the plan. About an hour out of Darwin we stopped at some roadworks, then a lady came up to Daniel’s window and said, ‘There’s water leaking from under your van, I think something is wrong.’ Indeed something was very wrong! The bracket holding the water tank up had broken and the water tank was dragging along the asphalt. Daniel did some magic with a few ratchet straps and we made it to Katherine. We stayed the night at Katherine and luckily a steel fabricator was able to make new brackets, which Daniel fitted. There were no replacement water tanks around (the nearest one was in Broome) so Daniel patched it up with some special glue (that will hopefully hold!). Whilst he was working on the van the kids and I cooled off in the pool then we walked down to Katherine River, where Jackson joined the local kids sliding down the slimy rocks into the rapids. We left very early the next morning, hoping to make up the time we lost!

Enjoying the view on our first night in Darwin.

We went out for Thai (our first dinner out in a long time). My scallop entree was incredible.

The kids loved their Pad Thai but their highlight was definitely dessert...banana fritter!

You could go under one of the tanks at Crocosaurus Cove and get a very different view of a crocodile.

The juvenile crocs were very inquisitive and kept coming up to the glass to look at us (Jackson did notice there were lots of scratch marks on the inside of the glass so I think they'd like to do more than look if they could).

Dinner time..I just couldn't get over the keepers. The only thing they had for protection was a colleague holding a broom handle!

The crocodile above and below is Burt - he starred in Crocodile Dundee. He is over 80 years old, 5.1m long and weighs a whopping 700kgs. In the past they were hoping he would help their breeding program, but he ate 3 of his potential mates!!

Juvenile crocs- so funny how they lay all over each other!

Feeding the juvenile crocodiles - when they bit you had to yank the rod up fast, they certainly already had a lot of power in their bite.

We all took advantage of the opportunity to hold a python and a blue tongue lizard.

Both snakes that we were allowed to hold showed a lot of interest in Jackson...must be his glowing blonde mullet!

She finally built up the courage to hold one (as long as we were close by).

Then we all got to hold a baby crocodile, it was surprisingly heavy.

No. 1 on Darwin's Must Do List - Mindil Beach Sunset Market

Mindil Beach was the place to be for sunset....there were so many people! Everyone clapped when the sun set (which we thought was quite strange).

Enjoying dumplings for dinner

Followed by a huge icecream

This street performer was very entertaining.

After an hour on the Aqua Park - red faced and totally exhausted!

The view with our bbq dinner at Sunset Beach.

Wading over Katherine River.

Jackson copied some of the local kids letting the rapids take them down then river before grabbing onto the tree and swimming back up to do it again.

These are my favourite frangipanis - they look and smell amazing.

Waterfalls and Plunge Pools - enjoying the natural beauty at Edith Falls and Litchfield National Park

Edith Falls, NT

Saturday 27^th August

After spending the morning in Katherine loading up on supplies, we headed 1 hour north to Leiylan (Edith Falls). We had a lovely camp spot in the National Park, and it was only a short walk down to the impressive falls and the vast swimming hole. The weather was hot so we all enjoyed the deep, icy cold water. That evening we were treated to a selection of short movies on a large blow-up screen courtesy of the NT Travelling Film Festival. The movies were all made by Indigenous Top End film makers and there was a huge variety of genres, with all giving an insight into the culture and customs of the Aboriginal people from various areas up here. We were all thoroughly entertained and very impressed. The next morning we walked up to the Upper Gorge and were treated to some great views. After another swim, we packed up and headed to Litchfield. Edith Falls was just a taste of the waterfalls and swimming holes to come.

I went for an early morning walk just before the sun had risen over the falls.

The view was great on our morning walk to the top of Edith Falls.

Upper Gorge (on top of Edith Falls)

We had the place to ourselves, it was so peaceful (and hot....)

...so hot that we were all grateful for the pool to cool off in afterwards.

Litchfield National Park -Wangi Falls Campground, NT

Sunday 28th August - Friday 2^nd September

We booked 5 nights at the campground at Wangi Falls as Daniel decided this was where he wanted to spend his 42^nd birthday (lots of great memories from his childhood and our last trip). We’d done lots of one night stays so we were all looking forward to our extended stay.

Litchfield National Park has so much to offer; waterfalls, swimming holes, stunning rocky gorges and plenty of walks through the diverse landscape. Over the 5 days we were there we experienced most of what is on offer, as well as ensuring we enjoyed some well needed rest and relaxation.

Sunday 28^th August

• We arrived and went for a welcome swim in the Wangi swimming hole after setting up camp in the heat.
• It was very hot back at camp so we spent most of the afternoon and early evening down at the falls, swimming and exploring the waterfalls.

The first of many swims in the Wangi Falls plunge pool.

These photos show how much the colour of the rocks change at dusk. The rock seemed to glow as the light from the setting sun hit it.

Monday 29^th August

•  After some morning exercise (yoga and running) we spent the day going back and forth to Wangi Falls- floating, swimming & jumping off the rocks and relaxing back at camp (until we got too hot and had to go back for a swim)
• The kids and I got the cheesecake and chocolate brownie ready for Daniel’s birthday the next day, and then we cooked delicious pizzas on the Weber for dinner.

What an incredible spot to do yoga!

Tuesday 30^th August – Daniel’s Birthday

• After giving Daniel his cards and gifts (chocolates and lollies!) we went down for an early morning swim and we had the whole swimming hole and waterfalls to ourselves. It was divine.
• Daniel requested a pancake stack for breakfast so he, and the kids, stuffed themselves silly whilst a wallaby and her joey watched.
• We spent a few hours at Florence Falls, floating in the chilly water within the plunge pool and listening to the roar of the waterfall when you got up close.
• After that we headed to Buley Rockholes – a series of deep waterholes cascading down Florence Creek. We had an awesome time jumping in- with the kids trying an array of creative jumps from different rocks.
• When we got back to camp it was time for Daniel’s cake – a cheesecake. He was in heaven as we haven’t had cheesecake in ages (on account of our dairy free status). It was such a treat.
• After cooling off in the Wangi pool we cooked a feast for dinner – marinated ribs, garlic mash and snake beans, followed by birthday cake number 2 – chocolate brownie, with berries and ice-cream.
• We all had a great day swimming and feasting!

Ready for an early morning swim before breakfast.

The day of feasting begins!

One of the inquistive wallabies that wandered around our camp.

Florence Falls from the lookout on the walk down.

Florence Falls pool- just resting after lots of swimming.

The deep pools at Buley Rockholes were perfect for jumping.

I even had a go (but I'm not as skilled as the others and had to hold my nose!)

Who's dairy free?? Not us today! Daniel's been craving a cheesecake and I couldn't deny him on his birthday.

A happy 42nd birthday selfie :)

Wednesday 31^st August

• Today we did the Reynolds 4wd track to the Sandy Creek walking track. The walk along the rocky and dusty path seemed to take forever, and we were all getting hot and sweaty when we finally reached the breathtaking Tjaynera Falls. They were certainly worth the walk in. There were only a couple of other people there so we could really make the most of the serenity of the place.
• Afterwards we went to look at Tolmer Falls, the highest falls in the park. The viewing platform allowed us to see so far over the surrounding countryside, and we could clearly make out the many fires that were currently burning in the park (some deliberately lit, some from backburning).
• The scrub fires had been going since before we arrived and the whole area was bathed in smoke haze. Thankfully the smell wasn’t too strong and the haze created amazing light at sunset. The rangers seemed to be in control, though it was a bit disconcerting driving through the park with flames right up to the edge of the road!
• After Tolmer Falls we decided to go back to Buley Rockholes, even though it was late in the afternoon. We are so glad we did as we had the whole place to ourselves.

The palms had not recovered from the last fire and their colour created an eerie look on the hot and dusty walk along Sandy Creek.

The incredible Tjaynera Falls were well worth the walk in......

....and there were only 2 other people there.

Looking out over the National Park from the viewing platform near Tolmer Falls.

Tolmer Falls- it's the biggest waterfall in the park. You can only view it from above though as the area is sacred to the local Indigenous people and is also the habitat of a rare, and endangered, bat.

Thursday 1^st September

• After a lazy morning we headed to Walker Creek, where the walking track meanders along the creek and there are multiple places to stop for a swim. We swam in two beautiful swimming holes and at the second small hole we were amazed when a cormorant joined us in the water, swimming confidently around us catching fish. It wasn’t disturbed by us at all, which was very surprising.
• After Walker Creek it was on to the Cascades. The walk got very rocky by the end and I really struggled doing it in thongs (bad choice!). However the falls at the end were a real treat – the water plummeting from the top was really warm! Emilia and I stood under for a while having a fabulous massage whilst the boys went up to the top of the falls to investigate. The water up the top was shallow and the hot sun had obviously heated the water up so much that it was still noticeably warmer by the time it came down the falls.
• We got back to camp just before sunset and walked down to Wangi to enjoy the sunset from the little rocky hole near the waterfall. The rocks turn a deep red colour as the sun sets so it was an absolutely magical swimming experience. A perfect way to end our time here.

Monkey see, monkey do!! Enjoying one of the swimming holes along Walker Creek.

This deep pool was perfect for some diving practice.

The warm waterfall at the Cascades

We spent our last evening enjoying Wangi Falls at dusk.

After a few wobbly practice runs.....

...both kids stood on Daniel's shoulders.

The small pool right next to the waterfall was the perfect place to relax and enjoy the gorgeous early evening light.

I quickly swam over to join them once I'd taken a few photos.

We left on Friday morning after Emilia and I did an early morning walk to the top of Wangi Falls, via the monsoon forest and the chorus of hundreds of bats, to enjoy the view of the surrounding landscape and we all had one last swim in Wangi plunge pool. We certainly made the most of our time here and Daniel had a birthday to remember.

Drinking from a fresh mountain spring on the walk down from the top of Wangi Falls (and recreating something she did in 2016!)