Passing through the gates to Hell….well the corrugations were hell, but the scenery made up for it.

An hour or so out of Hell's Gate Roadhouse to 15 minutes south of Katherine

Wednesday 24th- Saturday 27th August

We left early from our roadside camp and pulled into Hell’s Gate Roadhouse for breakfast. The roadhouse is named after the nearby rock formations that sit close to the road – Hell’s Gate. It was called this as those travelling through Outback QLD to NT in the early 1900s were given police protection up until this point, at which they passed through the ‘gates to Hell’ where they were then on their own until they made it (or not) to Katherine. The area is remote these days, I can only imagine how wild and unchartered it was back then.

We had planned a few days to do this section of the Savannah Way, as we’d heard the corrugations were quite bad. However due to the wasted days in Burketown we had to rush through. The road was definitely very bad in some places and the car and van got very shaken up. We stopped every hour or so to check everything and found heaps of screws loose and the bumps had even shaken some cupboard handles off, but the most annoying thing was when the corrugations shook open a jar of Dolmio, so I opened the van to find a river of pasta sauce!

We ended up getting to just out of Katherine in only 3 days…..

Day 1: 50kms west of Doomadgee (QLD) to Foelshe River (on Savannah Way), NT.

Wednesday 24th August

The corrugations weren't too bad on this section and we stopped for the night on the flat shale rocks on the edge of the Foelshe River. There was enough water for a refreshing dip and we spent the afternoon relaxing and watching other cars, and a few trucks, do the river crossing (some of the locals went extermely fast which was fun to watch). Daniel went for a kayak and spotted a huge barramundi. He tried his luck later that evening (fishing out of the kayak) but the barra wasn't biting.

The roadhouse at Hell's Gate had heaps of character.

We finally made it to the Territory.

Leaving evidence of our journey (and hopefully not creating a future 'graffitier')

Practising using the cast net in the shallow river next to where we camped on the first night.

The kids enjoyed playing with the little frogs they found along the creek bank.

Up on the hill behind the creek where we camped there was an abandoned, and burnt out, dwelling. The old vehicles strewn around the place looked eerie in the late afternoon light.

We got up early to enjoy the stunning colours of another Outback sunrise.

Getting some warmth from the fire- the morning was chilly. As you can see we camped on the rocks at the edge of the creek - a lovely spot. Jackson is in the background looking for the cane toads that Daniel walloped the night before!

Day 2: Foelshe River (along Savannah Way) to a roadside stop on the Carpentaria Hwy (about 200kms east of the junction with Stuart Hwy) via Booroloola.

Thursday 25th August

So today were the bad corrugations everyone was talking about!! We certainly got shaken about. Daniel did a stellar job towing the van in difficult circumstances. Driving at a slower pace meant we got to enjoy the scenery though, and we marvelled at the mass of termite mounds that lined the road, there are just so many. We also saw kangaroos, wallabies, eagles and even a dingo whilst driving along. We stopped for a break at Wearyn River, where the boys fished whilst I did yoga and Emilia did some sewing, then we bumped along until Booroloola where the road turns to bitumen (thankfully). 

The following 8 photos are from an unexpected gem we discovered after leaving Booroloola (we only found it as we were looking for a place to stop as I'd forgotten to turn the fridge from gas to DC). We pulled into Carabirini Conservation Reserve and read about the 'Lost City'- weathered sandstone that has eroded to create spectacular formations. It was such a scenic walk (although the flies were very friendly) and we could see why it is likened to a mini Bungle Bungles. We were all very impressed.

Sweaty feet and dusty ground = filth

I made her pose for some lovely pictures in the early evening light at our hilltop camp spot.

Enjoying a sunset cuddle.

The corrugations shook everything around so much that I nearly got knocked out by a random selection of food items every time I opened one of the high cupboards. We decided I should wear a helmet to keep safe!

Hill top roadside stop on the Carpentaria Hwy to just near the RAAF Tindal Base just out of Katherine (didn't realise we were definitely on military land until the morning- whoops).

Friday 26th August

After another early start, and another magnificent sunrise, we made our way to Bitter Springs and floated in the warm water (with about 100 other people!). The warm water certainly helped clean off some of the dirt we'd accumulated on our feet over the last few days! After a long soak we headed towards Katherine and took a track off the highway hoping to find a spot to camp for the night. We found a place, but as fighter jets began flying over us I started to get worried as I thought we might be camping on an Army base. Daniel convinced me not to worry and the night went okay. As we drove out the next day I noticed a sign a bit further up the highway stating that it was a Commonwealth RAAF base and access was prohibited!!

Up at dawn again...to catch the sunrise and get on the road early.

We did fit in coffee and hot chocolate before we left though.

These wild pigs didn't run off into the bushes until we were right next to them...very brave!

Enjoying a warm bath at Bitter Springs.

There were a few rocky mounds near the area we camped that the kids and Daniel climbed.

Start me up........eventually!

Burketown, Gulf of Carpentaria, Middle of Nowhere, Outback QLD

Saturday 20th - Tuesday 23rd August

We made it to Doomadgee via the alternate Savannah Way route (which was a great road). We were making good time and thought we’d easily make it to Hell’s Gate Roadhouse for the night. The starter motor had other plans for us though! After filling up at the Doomadgee Roadhouse the car would not start!!!!! We sat blocking the bowsers for half an hour trying to work out what to do (it was Saturday afternoon, the local mechanics had gone to Brisbane for a week and we were reluctant to call RAVQ as they’d tow us to the closest mechanic but we first needed to find out who had a starter motor available as we didn’t want to spend weeks sitting in an Outback town waiting for one to be delivered). As the guys from the Roadhouse got ready to tow us out of the way (we were bad for business), Daniel tried the car and it started! We now had to quickly decide whether to drive the 5 hours to Mt Isa (where we thought we’d have more luck getting a starter motor) or try Burketown which was only 90kms away. After a few phone calls to auto parts stores in Mt Isa we discovered that there were no Landcruiser starter motors in town and it would take 5-7 business days to get one in (once they ordered in on Monday). We decided to try our luck in Burketown….and lucky we were. When we finally got to talk to the mechanic on Monday morning, we were pleasantly surprised (well actually ecstatic) to learn that he had a starter motor, and he could put it in on Tuesday!

We spent a few days filling time (there is not much to do in Burketown without a car) and by the time Tuesday came around we were starting to get bored. The kids made the most of the double basketball courts, which they used for roller skating and roller blading, we visited the library, played pool in the pub, the boys had a fish off the bridge, we walked up to the hot bore (that has now created wetlands) and we relaxed at camp and tried to stay cool. It was quite hot and there was no pool, so we were grateful to have power to use the air con in the van. The little green tree frog that lived in the ladies toilet kept us amused - each morning Emilia went to find where it was hiding.

We rolled out of Burketown Caravan Park early afternoon on Tuesday, happy to be on our way ($1200 poorer but the situation could have been a lot worse). We got about 5 minutes down the road when Daniel noticed the car was lacking power – he put his foot down on the accelerator but the car just wouldn’t pick up speed. We reluctantly turned around and went back to the mechanic. We had to check into the caravan park again as the mechanic wasn’t sure how long it would take him to fix the car. So about 20 minutes after we left, we were back again! We cranked up the aircon and just waited. We really didn’t want to spend another night in Burketown as we were running out of time to get over to NT, where we had nights booked in a few national parks. Finally at about 4.30pm the car was fixed and we left (again). We drove until about 6pm then found a gravel pit on the side of the road to camp. It wasn’t ideal but at least we’d be able to cross into NT the next day.

I don’t think any of us will be rushing to get back to Burketown any time soon!!

Broken down at the bowsers at Doomadgee :(

The Burketown Bore was the only 'attraction' in Burketown that we could reach by foot. It was drilled in 1897 but the water was unsuitable for drinking or irrigation so it was just left. Over time the minerals in the water built the mound around the bore opening and the surrounding area is now wetlands and home to many birds and animals. The water from the bore is so hot (68degC) that it was steaming which looked great in the morning and evening sun.

The bubbling Burketown Bore.

Jackson's hair was getting a bit overgrown (it has a life of it's own in this video) so Daniel gave him a haircut, shaving off the sides so his mullet (his pride and joy) stands out more!

Paddle Power - enjoying Lawn Hill Gorge from the water.

Boodjamulla National Park – Lawn Hill Gorge

Thursday 18th - Saturday 20th August

We can see why so many people make the effort to visit this remote national park on the border of Queensland and NT – it is absolutely stunning. The stunning deep green water of Lawn Hill Creek cuts through red sandstone cliffs in the highlight of the park – Lawn Hill Gorge. We camped at Adel’s Grove and managed to snag a site down near the creek so we enjoyed a refreshing swim every afternoon in the cool, mineral rich waters.

During our time at Boodjamulla National Park we:

• Hiked up the rocky path to a ridge top on the Constance Range, hoping to watch the sunset over the savannah plains- the walk said 3 hours return, but we made it to the top in only half an hour! With a long time to wait in the hot sun until sunset, we decided to try again another time!
• Left early to do the loop walk to Upper Gorge, Middle Gorge and Indarri Falls. It was a lovely walk and we had the Upper Gorge lookout to ourselves, allowing to really revel in the splendour of the place.
• Hired a double canoe, then used our kayak and stand-up paddle board to canoe to the Upper Gorge via Indarri Falls. The paddle up was challenging as it was very windy, but the way back was blissful as the tail wind pushed as along.
• Relaxed in the swimming area in Lawn Hill Creek at Adel’s Grove.
• Got up at 5am to do the Constance Range walk again – this time we thought we’d try for the sunrise. We got up the top just as the sky was turning red and purple. We made a coffee and had cupcakes whilst we watched the sun rise- it was absolutely stunning.

After our early morning walk we packed up and took the alternate Savannah Way route towards Doomadgee, headed towards the NT border. Lawn Hill Gorge is definitely another gem in Outback Queensland.

Enjoying the view from a ridge on top of Constance Range on our first afternoon.

The wildflowers were lovely.

Enjoying a late afternoon swim after at the swimming area near our campsite.

Beginning our early morning walk to the Upper Gorge lookout.

Hiking towards the top of Upper Gorge

Looking down on Lawn Hill Gorge- the water is such a spectacular colour.

The view the other way was pretty good too, the park is definitely in a remote part of QLD.

Enjoying the serenity

Selfie!

Indarri Falls- it is actually behind the rocks. You used to be able to swim up under it but the resident freshwater crocodile has become aggressive, so you can only paddle up to the edge from the safety of your kayak.

The contrasting colours of the red cliffs of the gorge and the emerald green water was stunning from both above and when we were in the water.

One of the many stunning views on our morning hike.

We passed a bower bird's nest on the walk- this one likes grey and white 'treasures'.

Part of the walk was right next to the creek- at this spot we saw a turtle swimming.

Parts of walk were very rocky and steep- thankfully we did this part coming down as it was very steep.

Below are photos from the highlight of our time at Boodjamulla National Park- when we paddled up the creek, past Indarri Falls to the Upper Gorge. Daniel took my phone in a zip lock bag so he took all the photos (I didn't trust myself to have it!). There were a few very difficult parts on the way up, at one point the wind nearly blew me off the stand-up paddleboard and we all had to paddle with all our strength to stop ourselves being pushed backwards! It was worth the effort though as we had the Upper Gorge to ourselves. On the way back we could relax a bit more. I actually lay down on the SUP and floated, looking up at the gorge as it slowly passed by...until I bumped into a palm that had fallen in near the water's edge (trust me to do this!). We spent 2 and a quarter hours on the water, paddling, swimming and enjoying the serenity and magic of this place.

This was a very windy bit, I had to get down on my knees as the wind was pushing me over!

Checking out one part of Indarri Falls

Indarri Falls- it was too hard to paddle up behind the rock as we kept getting pushed sideways!

The kids swapped over on the way back, so they both had turns with Daniel in the double canoe that we hired.

A freshwater crocodile we saw on the way, we were able to paddle up quite close to it.

The croc was quite well camouflaged on the fallen log.

On top of a ridge on Constance Range - boiling the water for an early morning coffee with a view!

Bush barista.

How amazing is the view we got to enjoy while we sipped our coffee.

A panoramic view- the photo doesn't really capture how beautiful it was.

No, we don't have rosacea, and Jackson is not wearing red lipstick! The rising sun has just made us glow!

The expansive views of the outback savanna plains

Playing peek a boo in the rocks

There were so many great photo opportunities - Emilia and I took so many shots.

Jackson loves finding walking sticks when we go hiking.

As we hiked down the mountain we got to see the gorge glowing in the morning light.

On our quest to take the road less travelled we decided to try the alternate Savannah Way

We even got to take the van through a creek crossing along the alternate Savannah Way.