4 Stray Katz: Unexpected oases in the Red Centre.

After 2 nights in Alice Springs (scrubbing the kids filthy clothes from the dusty Finke camp and spending an infuriating few hours in Woolies with a few thousand other people) we headed in to the West MacDonnell National Park. Our first stop was Standley Chasm where we enjoyed watching the sun creep from one side to the other as noon went by. It was then off to a remote camp area I had found out from the chiropractor I saw the day before (who had trained with my chiro from Melbourne - such a weird coincidence). Anyway all was going well at the start of the track, which was just river sand. We passed a few school groups doing overnight hikes, and after a quick chat to ensure we wouldn't be camping in the same spot that night, we proceeded but promptly came to a incredibly rocky track. Large river rocks that the car had to crawl over. Once we started the track we couldn't turn around so just had to keep bouncing along. Henry went ahead and found a lovely clearing on the riverbank looking onto a cliff face (there was even a little bit of water!).

Unfortunately Jackson had been getting progressively sicker and we were pretty sure he had a chest infection. Thankfully I had stockpiled some standard antibiotics before we left so we got him on those straight away. He needed lots of cuddles so he and I skipped the short walk along the rest of the track, leaving that to Henry, Daniel and Emilia. ***ps - turned out to be and area infested with sand flies and we got completely eaten. Bites all started erupting about 24hours later. One of Jackson's calves had 37 bites on it. Extensive first aid kit came in handy again! We are still itchy and this was a week ago (just slow doing this blog!).

The next day we headed further west into the ranges, stopping at Ellery Creek Big Hole, it looked very appealing but it was a bit too cold for a swim. Instead Daniel, Henry and I took turns doing the 3.5km walk, enjoying the amazing scenery, whilst the kids played around the waterhole. Then it was on to Ormiston Gorge where we secured a fantastic campspot in the coach area (that was empty for the night). Henry set up his stretcher to sleep under the stars as the nights had been getting milder. He hadn't had much luck with it on his way to Alice, with it raining every time he tried to sleep on it. Within a few minutes some black clouds began to roll in!! We were told by the camp hosts that rain was only predicted in Alice and further south so not to worry. Hmmmm - famous last words.

I wanted to do the 7km 'Ormiston Pound' walk and Emilia was keen to do it with me. After finding out we had to wade through waist deep water she was still keen as long as Henry came to piggyback her, thankfully he obliged as the walk turned into much more of an adventure than we had planned! The walk was predicted to take 3-4hours but we did every walk in WA a lot shorter than the predicted times so figured this would be the same. We set off about 3.15pm and told Daniel and Jackson we'd be back for dinner at 5.30pm. Well the walk was as challenging as it was spectacular. We were constantly gobsmacked at the sheer beauty of the gorge seen from various vantage points and of the hills and valleys that we walked over and in, however we were very unprepared for the time it would take us to navigate the rocky, sometimes steep and windy track. Emilia was feeling the pinch by about the halfway mark and we had taken a lot longer than expected so could only allow her short breaks. After we finally reached the turn off into the valley, where we could see the gorge we were headed to, her spirits rose (a few lollies helped too). We had been encouraging her to walk fast and once she got started she kept a cracking pace. Around 5.15pm we still hadn't reached the water crossing, which was at the 80%mark, and the sun was making its way down very rapidly. We picked up the pace even further singing songs whilst we hopped over the rocks in the dry river bed. When we finally reached the river crossing the sun was well behind the rocks and the shadowed river bed was very difficult to naviagate. Poor Henry slipped on a rock whilst piggybacking Emilia, going in to his chest, whilst Emilia's face contorted in horror as she got dipped in to her waist. After finding an alternative way we made it across but by now Henry and I were starting to silently panic as we still had nearly a kilometre to go and it was getting darker by the minute. There was no track either, you just had to scramble over the rocks on the side of the river. Emilia and I ended up in bare feet (due to wet shoes) and we tried desperately to quickly run over the rocks without stubbing our toes. We all kept thinking about Daniel back at camp who would be very stressed by now. As the last light faded we ran up the sandy edge of the pristine waterhole towards the short path that would take us back to camp just as Daniel was riding down for his final check for us before enlisting help. We all had a very welcome dinner and hot shower and vowed never again to begin a walk too late in the afternoon! Daniel did the walk the next morning and completed it in 2 hours going at a fast pace for him. He still can't believe that Emilia did it in 3 hours. It was a challenging walk and we are so proud of her effort and also her ability to stay calm when the going got tough. I am also very glad Henry came with us, Emilia and I may have ended up spending a night in a cave if he hadn't been with us to help.

So back to the rain story. After our hike the weather turned and the thunder started. Henry's rainmaking stretcher had certainly done its job, we had an incredible storm. Huge claps of thunder and some brilliant lightning followed by an absolute downpour. Henry had scurried to put up his tent when the first thunder began and Daniel had put our flys out so we all managed to stay dry but we certainly won't be encouraging him to use his stretcher again.

The next two days were great with a little less adventure. We left Ormiston Gorge headed towards Palm Valley, a place Henry remembered fondly from a trip over 20 years ago. We stopped off on the way at Tnorala (Gosse Bluff), a crater (around 5km in diameter) created by an ancient meteorite. After driving inside and checking out two lookouts we moved on to Hermannsburg, the first Aboriginal mission in Australia and also home to tea rooms with 'famous' apple strudel. Whilst I stayed with a napping Jackson in the car, Henry, Emilia and Daniel indulged. Emilia couldn't believe her luck when she got ice-cream and cream on her strudel! A well earned reward after her stellar effort hiking the previous day.

On to Palm Valley, the next oasis in the desert. The scenery was incredible driving in but unfortunately the campground (which is still 4km from Palm Valley) was very full. We turned back and ended up finding a lovely bush camp spot outside the National Park on the banks of the Finke River. We all enjoyed watching a spectacular lightning show that seemed to encircle us. Thankfully we didn't get a drop of rain but we have since heard that it rained so much in Alice Springs the Todd River (which was bone dry when we were there a week ago) broke its banks and the downpour damaged many buildings. The next day was spent exploring Palm Valley. After a very rough 4km track in we were rewarded with a lush tropical garden. It is unclear how the original palms got here but the damp valley has provided the perfect environment for them to flourish. Daniel, Henry and the kids were lucky enough to see a rock wallaby up close (I had gone on a longer walk) which was certainly a highlight for them. After another short walk to a lookout over the rugged, red rocky cliffs we headed back to camp. We had seen and done so much over the last few days we all needed a rest (before getting up early to get to Kings Canyon the next day - but that adventure will be in an upcoming blog).

Holding a Bearded Dragon at the Alice Springs Reptile Centre.

'Mum its starting to move - hurry up and take the photo!'

Standley Chasm - the sunlight moving through the gap.

Noon in the chasm - sunlight hitting both sides of the rock.

The sheer rock faces of Standley Chasm are very impressive.

Bathed in sunlight.

On the rocks at the end of Standley Chasm.

Helping Opa on the 'Pound Walk' at Ormiston Gorge, West MacDonnell Ranges.

Looking out over the ranges.

Surfing down some rocks - we are so proud of her effort on this walk.

The scenery was breathtaking.

It was nearing dusk so we began marching, Emilia made up her own words to a marching song.

Coming into Ormiston Gorge - some serious rock hopping needed.

Ormiston Waterhole (we missed it the night before in the dark so went down early the next morning).

Looking out into Gosse Bluff Crater.

Looking in to Gosse Bluff Crater, around 5km in diameter.

Like father, like son. Jackson in his 'safety gear' with his chainsaw ready to help Daddy!

Like father, like son take 2. Warming their hands on a cold morning whilst bush camped near Palm Valley.

Palm Valley.

A walk through Palm Valley.

The palms are so unexpected and made you feel like you were in a tropical climate, not in the desert.

After a walk by myself further along Palm Valley then to up the rocky side, the view was incredible.

Looking down on the lush Palm Valley.

The homemade sign guiding Mummy back to the carpark (written with Opa's half sucked peppermint!). It was facing the other way though, I just moved it to take in the view then carried it down to them.