Not even a glimpse of a gorge at Katherine.

Our journey to Katherine consisted of a lot of time in the car and some great sneaky roadside camp spots.

Day 1 - Yulara (Uluru) to about half hour before Devils Marbles. Just under 800km. A stop in Alice Springs for a quick shop (including donuts aka bribes) then just lots of driving! Found a great camp spot hidden from the road right next a lovely old windmill. The kids enjoyed the freedom of a secluded bush camp spot and enjoyed riding their bikes up and down the side road. Emilia showed her bush skills by collecting twigs and sticks to build a kids-only campfire, it was so cute we had to light it for her. Her and Jackson sat around it whilst Daniel and I sat around the main campfire!

Day 2- another huge day of driving but this time with some more interesting stops. Drove about 650km with stops at Devils Marbles, many circular rocks that look like they have been strategically placed throughout the landscape, and Daly Waters Pub, an infamous outback pub where patrons are encouraged to donate belongings. This has resulted in a thong tree, number plate fences, walls of badges and business cards and rows of underwear hanging above the bar. Emilia was very amused and said loudly 'Look at all the booby holders Mum' when we walked in. After a few beers, some icy poles for the kids and the placement of our 4StrayKatz card we headed off to find a camp spot. We were in luck again and found a great spot down a side road. Had a campfire and marvelled at the stars.

Day 3- today began with a stop at Mataranka Hot Springs for a relaxing and refreshing dip before heading to Katherine. Our caravan park was only a few minutes walk from the Katherine Hot Springs so we had a dip there too. After an afternoon spent doing jobs (washing, grocery shopping, cleaning out the car) we were ready for a day at the Katherine Gorge the next day.

Day 4- We had a relaxing morning at a nearby section of the Katherine River that had rapids and rockpools to play in before heading to Katherine Gorge with a plan to hire one kayak so (in addition to our own kayak) all four of us could paddle the gorge together. It was not to be. The first section of the gorge was closed as they had not been able to give the all clear for saltwater crocodiles so the only way to see the gorge was to be ferried to gorge two and kayak from there. Hence the kayaks were completely booked out. The only other way to see the gorge was to do a 12km hike! Not a chance on a 34deg day. Instead we just watched the resident fruit bats for awhile then headed back to camp to use the pool instead. It was disappointing but we consoled ourselves with the fact that we had seen many wonderful gorges in the Kimberley and we still had Litchfield and Kakadu NPs to see so we were bound to encounter more natural wonders before the trip's end.

Jackson rebuilding the cow with the bones he found at our roadside stop.

A very nice view from our free camp.

Emilia and Jackson enjoying the campfire she built for them.

Our little devil at Devil's Marbles.

Nah, can't lift it Mum.

A small crack let water slowly seep in between the rock causing this perfect break.

On the highest one they could find.

Jackson after helping to collect firewood, he managed to find every bit of charcoal wood in the vicinity.

Enjoying the warm water at Mataranka Hot Springs.

Caught in Flight - one of the thousands of bats at Katherine Gorge.

The trees were heaving with them.

It looked like this one was beating his chest.

It is meant to be a colony of bats but I think these ones should be a 'bunch of bats'.

Feeling like a fairy in a Field of Lights.

Our last night at Uluru was spent meandering through the fairyland of coloured lights that made up the unique art installation Field of Light. When visiting Uluru in 1992, the artist, Bruce Munro, came up with the idea of lights coming up from the ground to represent wildflower seedlings growing in the desert. His idea came to fruition on a grand scale. Over 380km of optic fibre is used and the work is made up of 50,000 solar powered lights. The result is just magical. The lights constantly change colour which changes your perspective on the piece depending on the contrasts of the colours. The night we visited was particularly dark (it had been drizzling during the day and the clouds had stayed in the sky) though the darkness made the lights really stand out and appear to continue so far towards the horizon. After several walks around (and lots of oohs and ahhhs at the colours) Daniel and Henry took the kids home on the first bus as they were very tired whilst I stayed another hour to absorb the beauty of the spectacular scene. It was definitely an added bonus to my time at Uluru.

 

 

 

 

To climb or not to climb????

Visitors to Uluru are now discouraged, but not forbidden, to climb the rock based on a number of reasons including cultural significance, safety concerns (35 people have died trying to climb Uluru) and environmental reasons (erosion on the track to the top and the impact of thousands of people weeing during their 3 hour climb). After much discussion and consideration Emilia, Daniel and Henry chose to climb whilst Jackson and I chose not to. The climb was planned for the day after we arrived and Emilia was brimming with excitement and anticipation. However it was not to be. The path was closed on the first day due to predicted rain then closed again on the second day as more rain was predicted. It had actually reopened for a few hours but both times we checked it was closed so they missed out. Emilia was devastated! The 10km bike road around the base did little to salve her disappointment but a plan to come back in a few years at least stopped the tears. 

It was exceptionally busy at the Ayers Rock Resort in Yulara (the only place to stay near the rock) and, as we hadn't booked, we ended up in the overflow camping. It was a dust bowl far down the back of the park but it was only $10 a night and at least we could still use the facilities. 

Driving up to the rock in the afternoon after we arrived we all couldn't help but be awed by its size. It looks so dramatic against the sparse countryside around it. After checking out the cultural centre we headed to the sunset viewing spot to watch Uluru at its best. Over the course of an hour and a half, with wines and cheeses, we watched the rock change colour in the subsiding light. It was beautiful and even a severe tantrum from Jackson didn't ruin it!

We headed to Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) on the second day but only managed a short walk towards the Valley of the Winds, which was beautiful, before both kids decided they were too exhausted to continue. Daniel also had a painful tooth/jaw which was getting progressively worse to the point that he could hardly open his mouth. We decided to cut our losses and head back to camp, leaving Henry to do the full Valley of the Winds walk. After several painkillers Daniel felt better but a visit to the dentist will be a priority when we return home.

After a rest we were all ready for dinner out. We had an amazing meal at the Bough House restaurant at the resort. High quality buffet for entree and dessert with exceptional steaks for our mains. They also had a kids play area so everyone was happy and we had a great night. The kids loved the dessert buffet though Emilia indulged in too much cheesecake and came home with a sore tummy!

The next morning Jackson and I rose early to watch the sunrise over Uluru and we marvelled at the gorgeous red sky. Climbing up Uluru was closed again due to impending rain so Henry, Emilia and Daniel did the 10km base walk (with Emilia riding her bike) whilst I took Jackson on his bike to explore some of the caves and art on the rock close to the carpark. It did rain briefly but thankfully it was only light and it was gone by the evening for our night out at the Field of Lights Art Installation (photos to follow in the next blog post).

We had enjoyed our time in Uluru and around the Red Centre with Henry and definitely want to come back as there is certainly more exploring to do. The kids, especially Emilia, were devastated that Opa was leaving and she shed lots of tears when he said goodbye early the next morning. We are hightailing it north to a warmer climate for our last 2 weeks of sunshine before heading back to Melbourne.

The rock was just so overwhelming we had to stop for an icecream break - Thanks Opa!

Sunset viewing on our first night - first shot.

About 20 minutes later - shadows creeping in with rock glowing in the low sunlight.

The shadows hit the rock and it goes even redder.

With the sun hitting the horizon the rock glows so red.

As the sun sets the colours continue to change.

The contrast against the pink/purple sky was beautiful.

The light was fading but the rock still looked fabulous.

Final shot before leaving - lucky I had my tripod as I needed a long exposure to get this is such low light - great colours though.

Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)

Father, son and a big rock in the distance.

One of the 36 domes at Kata Tjuta

Emilia and the view down into the Valley of the Winds.

Sunrise - Jackson and I got up early to enjoy a crisp morning watching the lovely colours.

A sunrise cuddle - with an annoying fly who settled on my forehead just as the timer went off!

The texture of some parts of Uluru is not what you expect.

Does the Batman cape actually help me to fly???

Batman riding clockwise around the rock to meet his sister.

Some of the Aboriginal Art in a cave at Uluru.

Who needs the Grand when we have the King.

We arrived at the impressive Kings Canyon after lunch with us all very excited to do the 6km Rim Walk. After a climb straight up the canyon (which the kids did with ease while we huffed and puffed), we were rewarded with impressive views of the surrounds. It got even better as we approached the canyon rim, with its sheer sandstone chasm plunging 270m into the lush valley below. We were all awed by the view as well as the many rocky domes that make up the top of the canyon. 

After going down then across the valley we climbed up the southern wall of the canyon and stopped at a small waterhole. It was full of tadpoles in various stages of development and the kids marvelled at the semi-grown tadpoles with legs and tails that Daniel showed them. 

We completed the walk in 3 hours which was a great effort by both kids. It was a really enjoyable walk and a great day. That night we camped near a small rocky gorge down a track on the road towards Uluru. Opa named the gorge Emilia and Jackson Gorge and they enjoyed climbing up the rocks until it got too dark. We headed off early the next morning, en route to the 'the Rock'.

The steep climb up at the start.

Getting up high.

Peekyboo- check out my great climbing.

A shady break after the big climb up.

Walking through the many rocky domes that make up the top of Kings Canyon.

A rocky section on the edge of the canyon.

Looking out into the canyon valley.

Crossing over the canyon, a bridge and stairs made it easy to get to the south side.

The one way only gate to the South Side Wall (to stop climbers on hot days) looked very out of place.

On the south side with the smooth canyon walls behind us (Jackson was distracted by the shadows I think).

It is such captivating landscape.

Nearing the end of the walk some of the rocks look like face silhouettes.

Relaxing at our roadside stop after walking the whole 6km Rim Walk - Well done Jackson!