Gibb River Road Tally

Kilometres - 3248

Nights - 60

Free camp areas - 7 different areas, 29 nights

Paid camp areas - 10 different areas, 31 nights

Number of nights in a tent - 12

Gorges - 14

Waterfalls- 10.               

Showers - Between 15 and 20

Nude swims - every time we free camped by ourselves!!

Broken toys - only 2 (Action man and Barbie became amputees)

Red dust in van - clouds of it after every drive, the cupboards are full!

Freshwater crocodiles - too many to count, they are prolific in all the gorges we swam in but they hide deep down once people approach

Saltwater crocodiles - 1

Bottles of wine* -18 (1 bottle had to last 3.5 days so rationed to one decent glass every afternoon!)

Bottles of Jack Daniels* - 2 

Bolts and fittings lost from car - 9

Random screws found rolling around the van (whose homes have still not been found) - 2

* alcohol is not available on the Gibb River Rd so this was the absolute maximum we could carry.

What an adventure! Thanks to Daniel, Emilia and Jackson for so many wonderful memories.

                         Here are some photos of us looking very scruffy after 9 weeks in the bush.

Easing back into reality: the luxury end of the Gibb River Rd

After nearly 9 weeks exploring along the Gibb River Road our journey was nearing the end as we approached the 'resort' style stations, Home Valley and El Questro, perfect places to reacclimatise us to camping with others. The main attraction at Home Valley Station was a huge playground. After 9 weeks with no playground the kids were enthralled. Our friends James and Emily also stopped over so the kids spent hours making up intricate games on the play equipment. There was also a lovely pool so we managed to amuse ourselves playing, swimming, watching the sunset from two different vantage points nearby (looking over the Pentecost River and the Cockburn Ranges) and visiting Bindoola Gorge. Whilst at the gorge I thought I would practise my diving in the deep water. I am having some coordination problems (how unusual for me I am sure you're thinking!) and my dives are very average. Anyway I am persisting but this time I managed to do a major bellyflop, much to the amusement of everyone, and even give myself a blood nose. I then had the kids trying to give me tips about how to dive better. Very embarrassing!! At Home Valley we also had a great dinner out, eating delicious ribs whilst downing some cold beers and listening to live music. It was a great night (that also blew the budget!).

Jackson building a rock cairn whilst we watch the sunset over the Pentecost River

Interesting photography skills after the large beers at Home Valley!

Batman at our dinner at Home Valley

Rock cairns on the lookout over the Cockburn Ranges

Add caption

Wine and sunset - how romantic!

After a couple of nights we headed to El Questro, the most well known station on the Gibb River Rd, and certainly the busiest. It had a lovely swimming hole with little waterfalls and tyres to float around in, it was freezing but very refreshing as a heat wave had hit the Kimberley and the days were heating up to around 38 deg. We spent the afternoon relaxing there. On the way in we had stopped at the much raved about Zebedee Springs, a hot springs with water constantly flowing at around 28deg. There were small rocky pools so you had your own 'bush bath', it was so relaxing and we spent an hour or so lying in the pool.

Just before dusk we drove to the Branco lookout and made it just in time to watch the setting sun changing the colours of the Cockburn ranges. We could also just see the exclusive El Questro homestead where rooms are $2000 per night. The next day we left  as early as possible and headed for Emma Gorge. After a challenging walk in, over large rocks and through some beautiful palm forest we were astounded with the beauty of Emma Gorge. The large rocky walls were covered with small ferns, a small waterfall was flowing down, the protruding rocks were dripping water creating a beautiful effect and there was even a hot spring flowing from the rocks creating several warm pools (which were lovely after the near freezing water of the crystal clear pool at the base of the gorge). After our swim we hiked back then made our way off the Gibb River Rd. It was strange driving on the smooth bitumen road after 9 weeks of dirt road and corrugations. We headed to Kununurra, grateful to have been able to spend so long in such an incredibly beautiful and remote part of Australia.

Crossing the Pentecost (view from the car as there are meant to be crocs.)

Soaking in the warm water at Zebedee Springs

Our own hot spring flowing into our own warm pool - bliss.

Palms at Zebedee Springs

Another very warm pool the kids found.

Selfie at Branco's lookout

Looking out over the Pentecost River and El Questro station

Ripple rock at Emma Gorge

Emma Gorge

Warming up in the hot springs at Emma Gorge

Salties on Honeymoon

Honeymoon Bay is part of the Kalumburu Aboriginal Reserve and accessed via the community of Kalumburu. The old mission was established there in 1905 and the community was built around it. The land was given back to the Aboriginal people in 1981 and is managed by the Kalumburu Aboriginal Coorporation who appeared to be doing a great job catering to the needs of the community, keeping them safe (there is zero tolerance on drugs and alcohol in the community) and building up the tourist industry for the betterment of the local people. We were lucky enough to stay at the wonderful Honeymoon Bay campground and meet members of the local family who own and run the property. 

Les, Joy and their 11 month old son Oscar made our stay so special. Our stay was also made special as our new friends from Mitchell Falls met up with us and we had a wonderful 4 days together.

 Some of the many highlights included:

-Jackson reeling in a trevally during his fishing trip on Les' boat

-Emilia, Jackson and the four Wright girls (Zara, Heidi, Jade & Jasmine) playing on the beach from 6am until they literally fell asleep in their chairs in the evening.

-Eating fresh fish every night (caught by Daniel, James, Emily, Zara and Heidi) on their fishing trips with Les.

- Seeing a saltwater crocodile swim in the bay that we'd been paddling in, then it came near the rocks we were exploring (it was only about 10 metres away).

- Watching Daniel reel in a huge sleepy shark, it took him about 15 minutes and he was sweating and panting by the time he got it near enough to the boat to cut the line.

- Hearing Jackson yell out 'Aye Carumba' when he saw the shark Daniel reeled in.

- Building numerous sandcastles, tunnels and moats with the kids.

- Seeing all 6 kids snuggled up in our tent watching Mary Poppins and eating popcorn.

- Listening to the kids playing their imaginary games of mums and dads, their dialogue was hilarious.

- Camping only a few metres from the high tide mark and listening to the waves roll in as we drifted to sleep.

The only down point was I am apparently the flavour of the month and I got bitten by both mozzies and sand flies. Thankfully the kids didn't get too many but I was very spotty for awhile afterwards.

It is certainly a place we would love to return to.

Early morning beach hair!

Looking very bushy (and a bit sultry) in the beautiful dawn light.

Sunrise over Honeymoon Bay was incredible.

6.00am - time for the first sandcastle of the day!

The croc free swimming pool the kids and I dug and let the incoming tide fill.

Filleting the morning's catch.

Sunrise fishing - the water was so calm.

Emilia was very taken with the owner's dog.

Sand Mermaid.

A quick swim in the shallows (I was watching out for our friendly croc from shore)

Heidi and Emilia on Les' fishing boat.

Fishing lesson with Dad.

The huge sleepy shark Daniel reeled in (then cut free).

Look at the bend in the fishing rod!

MY TREVALLY!! (He was so proud of himself).

The kids and the catches (thanks Les)

Our wonderful friends - thanks for the fun times.

Emilia's photo of me taking a photo

Emilia's photo of the gorgeous sunrise (and her Daddy)

The Mighty Mitchell Falls and Munurru

After the success of our tenting adventure we decided to attempt the infamously horrendous road into Mitchell Falls with just the car and tent, leaving our van at the free 'vansitting' at Drysdale Station. We spent 3 days at the lovely Miners Pool camp area (a part of Drysdale Station) alternating between packing for our 7 nights away from the van and swimming. The kids loved the rope swing near a dry part of the river and Daniel practised with them whilst I was busy packing, getting them so incredibly high that I had a mini heart attack the first time I saw them on it (Daniel got it on video to show you Grandma- you know how he loves to shock you!!)

After saying goodbye to our van we departed with an impossibly full car for 7 nights in the tent, our first stop being the Mitchell Falls camp ground. Once we got to the turnoff the 70km on the notoriously bad Mitchell Plateau track took us about 2 hours, it was rocky and full of corrugations, but had such amazing scenery, particularly the huge and abundant palms, that the time went quickly. 

We campground was dusty and very noisy due to the helicopters consistently flying and landing nearby. Apparently the thing to do was to walk into the falls, a 4.3 km, 2hr+ walk, then take a 6 min helicopter ride back in the afternoon to see the falls from the air and save you having to walk in the heat of the day. The helicopter ride was $135 per person (with Jackson free). We decided that I would fly back with the kids & Daniel walk back to keep the cost down. We spent the afternoon exploring the Little Mertens Falls which were unfortunately beginning to dry up, though still had enough water for a cool down.

Mitchell Falls

We left the next morning about 9am for the Mitchell Falls, after getting weighed and listening to the safety spiel for our afternoons helicopter ride. The kids, particularly Jackson, were ridiculously excited. The walk in took us about 2 hours through some beautiful scenery. The Big Mertens Falls were certainly big, though again they weren't flowing much due to the abnormally dry wet season. Although not flowing with the abundance of water that they usually are, the Mitchell Falls were still an impressive sight. A four tiered waterfall that drops down 80 metres into a wide gorge. You can see why this place is of such spiritual importance to the Indigenous Australians. We spent the day swimming and walking around the top of the gorge to see the falls from different viewpoints. Soon the time for our helicopter ride approached and we made our way to the helipad. When the helicopter landed the kids nearly burst with excitement. The pilot assumed the whole family was flying. When we explained that Daniel wasn't he said there was a spare seat and it was the last flight of the day so Daniel should join us- hooray. Jackson got to ride in the front seat (Emilia was too nervous to) with Emilia riding between Daniel and I in the doorless back section. Jackson was in such awe that he didn't utter a sound for the whole flight. Emilia and I squealed when we took off and she spent most of the flight with her mouth open letting the wind gush in. The falls were very impressive from above and we could imagine how special it would be during the wet season with such a large amount of water cascading over the four waterfalls. We were buzzing with adrenaline when we landed and the lady at the booking counter saw the kids excitement and gave them a hat each to remember the occasion. It was a really special experience. 

Big Mertens Gorge

Mitchell Gorge and River

Beautiful Lily

Admiring Mitchell Falls

HELICOPTER - HOORAY!!

Ready for takeoff

Speechless in the front seat

Windblown hair after our helicopter adventure.

King Edward River (Munurru) was our next destination, and after a morning spent chatting with our new friends, James & Emily, and watching our kids and their 4 lovely girls play so well together we headed off for our bumpy drive back along the Mitchell Falls Track. We camped near the lovely river and spent the afternoon cooling off & resting our weary muscles (mine were especially sore after the previous day's hike wearing a 10kg pack - my legs were not used to that). There was some great rocks for the kids to explore and a small waterfall to walk to. The next day we explored the nearby rock art sites and just relaxed in the gorgeous water. We had positioned the tent with a clear view of the sky, and we kept the fly off, so we fell asleep star gazing and counting the number of shooting stars we saw, it was magical. On the morning we left a mist had settled over the river, creating a surreal effect and incredible light. We really enjoyed this campsite and could see why so many people had rated it as one of their faves.

But onwards and upwards we went, to the most northern community in WA (accessible by road anyway).

Extremely well preserved art near King Edward River

Cooling off in King Edward River

Our cheeky child

What a location - the river was less than a minute away.

Emilia picking wildflowers in the early morning mist.

Her collection of tiny wildflowers

Morning snack by the misty river.

Frisbee lessons.