Sun, sea, shells, sand whiting, salmon, Sturt's desert pea...and a sliced toe. Beach days from Broome to Karratha

Broome, WA

Tuesday 13th - Thursday 15th September

Other than the excitement of finally swimming in the sea, after so many months of looking at gorgeous beaches and being unable to get into the water because of the threat of crocodiles, the main ‘event’ whilst we were at Broome was the injury Daniel did to his toe. The boys went off for an early morning fish and on the way back to the car Daniel tripped on a rock (he was fishing wearing thongs which he should have known better not to do), and the rock managed to get underneath the base of his toe and rip his toenail, and the adjoining skin, forwards- OUCH. The nail and a large chuck of toe was hanging off, so he decided a trip to the hospital was needed. After a RAT test he was taken in to see a doctor who told him there were 2 options…before the doctor even explained the options Daniel said, ‘Whatever will get me back in the water the quickest is the option I want’. We have 4 weeks booked at Ningaloo Reef and if he couldn’t get in the water it was going to be very difficult. The option Daniel chose involved the doctor ripping his nail off (‘I’m sure you’ll be right without anaesthetic mate, just keep talking to me’, the doctor said while Daniel bravely endured the pain), then the rest of the damaged skin was sliced off with a scalpel! The wound was dressed, and Daniel was advised to keep his toe clean and dry, and hope for the best.

Luckily Daniel had a swim in Cable Beach the afternoon we arrived, otherwise he would have missed out. The following afternoon the kids and I enjoyed some time frolicking in the waves and enjoying the cool water. It was during our second swim that I heard my name called…I turned around to see a guy I used to work with when I was a Literacy Coach at Yarra Junction, we’ve kept in touch over the years and I last saw him in January when he was up my way consulting at a local school. It was such a pleasant, and very unexpected, surprise to bump into Danny in Broome though!

The rest of our time at Broome consisted of stocking up on supplies, getting some more car/van maintenance done, catching up on work & blogs, enjoying the resort style pool at the caravan park and watching the sun set over Cable Beach. The weather in Broome seems to always be incredible and we were tempted to stay another night, but we ended up deciding to move on to Barn Hill (and we are glad we did as it was even better than Broome).

Set up on Cable Beach ready to watch the sun set. Jackson was collecting shells and putting them on this rock. The seagulls must have thought it was food as they all started to attack! Jackson thought they were trying to steal his collection so started running around wildly, it was very funny to watch.

This boat was in the perfect position for a sunset shot.

The super low tide exposed lots of rocks that the kids enjoyed playing on and searching for shells under.

This is one of the dinosaur footprints on Cable Beach. They are rarely exposed but we were lucky enough to see them (thanks to a super low tide and a local who pointed them out).

Scored! Unbroken cake urchins are hard to find so Emilia was pretty happy she discovered this one.

'Oh What a Feeling'....Toyota (on Cable Beach!).

He was dedicated in his search for shells.

Jackson found this beautiful Cowrie shell, but it had a creature living in it so he had to return it to the ocean.

BEWARE - DO NOT LOOK AT THE FOLLOWING PHOTOS IF YOU ARE EATING (OR HAVE JUST EATEN).

Just after he tripped on a rock and ripped his toenail off from the base of the nail forward.

After going to the hospital. The doctor ripped the nail off then used a scalpel to remove the damaged skin...all of this was done without anaesthetic!

Barn Hill Station, WA

Thursday 15th- Sunday 18th September

We loved our time at Barn Hill in 2016 (with my parents) so thought we'd try it again, it did not disappoint. The hot days were perfect for enjoying the beautiful beach (although poor Daniel could only watch), whilst the sea breeze cooled us down in the evenings. The tides were ideal for our time there - low tide in the morning for walking the beach looking for treasures, then high tide around noon for swimming. Whilst swimming on the first day we were lucky enough to see 2 dolphins playing as well as a reef shark that swam within a metre of the water's edge chasing fish. 

The boys fished both days, the first day they walked up and down the beach but didn't catch any keepers. On the second day Daniel remembered seeing lots of whiting hanging around rocks another time he was diving, so he decided to try fishing in between the rocks as the tide changed..well this method certainly worked! Jackson and Daniel caught 28 sand whiting in about 2 hours- I only watched for about 15 minutes and they pulled 6 in during that time! I had brought food down to them as they hadn't come up for lunch (as the fish were biting). They both didn't want to let go of their rods so I had to feed them morsels of muesli bar while they fished! Jackson took a bite just as he pulled a whiting in, and in the 2 seconds when he wasn't concentrating on his fish it managed to free itself from the hook and try to jump to freedom. It landed in the sand beneath the rocks and Jackson jumped down, quick as a flash, then spent a good few minutes battling to pick up the slimy fish as it flailed around in the shallows. I was no help as I just stood there laughing. Eventually he managed to pick it up and get it into the bucket with the others. Afterwards he asked me to never ever try to feed him again when he is pulling a fish in- not sure how often that situation will occur again, but I will make sure I remember!

Wistfully looking out to the water. He was not allowed to swim because of his toe, so had to watch us enjoying the sea whilst he sweltered :(

Hidden treasures were often found under the rocks at low tide 

One morning Jackson was gone when we woke up...we found this note outside, 'Gone to sea'

Which ones are keepers?? The kids have spent a lot of time deliberating the merits of each of their shells in order to decide what to keep - it's a hard decision!

The perfect shady spot to lounge between swims.

Fun in the sand...apparently when I went back up to camp Emilia buried Jackson, including his head (she kindly put a towel over him so he didn't get sand in his mouth).

What a great spot to do yoga (shame my camera lens was so dirty!)

Checking out some of the piles of shells exposed at low tide.

There were lots of great shells when the tide went out- we wandered the beach each morning looking.

The rocks where all the action was occurring - Daniel forgot about his toe needing to stay dry, the fish were on so he needed to fish!

Here's a short video of Jackson pulling a fish in. This one was a trevally that was undersize so he threw it back in..they got enough whiting anyway (see below).

Whiting galore!

Sunset from the red cliffs at Barn Hill

Eighty Mile Beach, WA

Sunday 18th - Tuesday 20th September

Humbly named Eighty Mile (it is actually about 136 miles/220kms long), it is the longest uninterrupted stretch of beach in Western Australia. It is also home to masses of shells and abundant with fish, sting rays, jelly fish and reef sharks (hence why it is not really a swimming beach). We were camped just behind the dunes so we spent a lot of time exploring the beach. You can drive on the beach, so we took the car about 1km up from camp and the boys fished whilst Emilia and I meandered up and down the lines of shells. On the second day it was quite windy so Emilia and I relaxed at camp (and baked banana bread as the shop was giving away overripe bananas) whilst the boys tried their luck fishing again. By the time we went down to meet them they had each caught a Blue Salmon so we had a feast for dinner- Blue Salmon and Whiting- YUM!.

Wandering up the never-ending beach looking for shells - there were so many great ones.

The boys had no luck on the first day, even though they fished for 2 hours.

The kids made friends with Willow (and her sister who wasn't there for the photo)- notice the matching shell necklaces, Willow makes them and she gave each of the kids one as a gift!

Sunset from the dunes just a few metres from our camp.

Jackson was pretty happy to catch a Blue Salmon.

Jackson with both fish - he caught one and Daniel caught one.

Blue salmon for dinner- yum!

Kialrah Pool Free Camp

Tuesday 20th September

It was a bit far to get to Karratha from Eighty Mile Beach in a day, so we found a lovely free camp about an hour out of Karratha. It was so nice to have a fire that night and the stars were amazing. 

Sunset over Kialrah Pool out the front of our camp

Although he fell over in the dirt collecting firewood....

..... he still got the fire ready for us (using dried spinifex, a method he learnt from Harrison on our tour of Mimbi Caves).

Karratha

Wednesday 21st- Friday 23rd September

The main purpose of going into Karratha this time was a final stock up on food and supplies, and to finalise some car/van maintenance, before we spend 4 weeks on the Ningaloo coast. As well as doing these necessary (but boring) jobs we still managed to have a bit of an explore around the area. We watched the movie Red Dog then we went to Dampier and visited the statue commemorating this legendary dog, before seeing a few of the other sights in the area. We also took advantage of the lovely weather to enjoy the beach at Hearson's Cove. A highlight for all of us were the Sturt's desert peas that are flowering at the moment- some areas around Karratha were covered in these beautiful vibrant red wildflowers.

Sturt's desert pea flowers are everywhere in Karratha at the moment, even on the nature strips next to the shopping centre (where I took this photo).

There was an abundance of shells at Hearson's Cove- Jackson is looking through some whilst Daniel cools off, the water is very shallow so you have to sit or lay to get wet!

I am certainly loving all the beach time!

Visiting the Red Dog memorial statue after watching the movie.

Looking out to see piles of salt at the Dampier Salt works- most of their salt is used for chemical production but 20% of it is for food. 

Learning from a local- Mimbi Caves

Mimbi Caves, The Kimberley, WA

Sunday 11th September

We were lucky enough to go on a tour of Mimbi Caves with local Gooniyandi man Harrison. The caves were his childhood playground so he had lots of stories about the significance of this area to share with us. Aboriginal people have inhabited this part of the Kimberley for more than 40,000 years (determined by radiocarbon dating on ancient fireplaces) so the area is steeped in culture. The caves were once part of a reef system so there are fossils in many of the rocks, and tunnels and crevices everywhere. The whole cave system stretches for about 300km, with only a few areas accessible to the general population. We all thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to explore this section of the caves and get an insight into the local beliefs and customs.

After the tour we were given permission to visit Galeru Gorge, up near the community. It was lovely and we had the whole place to ourselves. As well as swimming in the silky cool water, a highlight was the discovery of a freshwater crocodile jaw (complete with teeth). We collected all the teeth we could find and have taken the jaw as a memento.

We would definitely recommend visiting Mimbi Caves and also camping at the excellent campground they have built nearby. We were impressed at how well the camp was set up and the location afforded us wonderful views of the nearby rocky mountain range.

Although we were only there for about 24 hours we had a very memorable time. Jackson listened intently when Harrison explained the way Indigenous people make use of different parts of plants for various means, and that evening he made ‘glue’ from dried up and ground boab nut mixed with water, before running his own ‘tour’ to show us how!

The pictures give more of an insight into this unique area, although none really truly capture the beauty and spiritual feeling of the place.

One of the many wildflowers around the rocky mountain range on the walk we did next to the Mimbi campground.

Enjoying the colours on the other mountain range, whilst Jackson cooked us dinner.

We went on a morning walk and explored the area around the campsite.

Off to explore the caves with our guide, Harrison.

Harrison prepared a smoking ceremony for us to welcome us onto the land. After he added the wet gum leaves and the fire was smoking well, we all had to walk around the fire place and let the smoke cover us.

The rock formations were so interesting- it felt like we were in a unique city.

A rock chess set made by a group of fossickers who set up camp in the caves in the 1980s. They also built a hut and apparently lived there for a number of months until Harrison's uncle discovered them and chased them off the land!

Going in the first cave, Jackson was very keen!

There was a creek flowing through the cave system that kept it very lovely and cool

Some of the rocks were such an interesting shape and texture - this one was very sharp.

Rock art depiciting the Rain Man and the good and evil spirits (which are separated by the crack in the rock as they can't be near each other). Rain man is the only one who can hold back the evil spirit. 

Rock hopping out of the first cave

The swimming hole in the cave where the 4 of us braved the cold water (and the darkness) for a swim.

Safety First! We had to wear helmets into the second cave.

The calcite slowing dripping through the sandstone has created such an interesting effect.

Some of the impressive stalactites and stalagmites in the second cave we explored.

Jackson listening intently as Harrison explained how a python was living in the small waterhole a few weeks ago.

Jackson and Daniel climbed up into this crevice and discovered heaps of bats

Enjoying some damper and golden syrup.

Swimming out from the caves- it was a bit scary getting in the water in the dark inside the cave......

...but lovely once we got in.

The private locals' gorge (Galeru Gorge) we were given permission to swim in.

Ellendale Pool overnight stop, enroute to Broome

Monday 12th September

The lovely station owners have opened up a piece of their land right next to a permanent dam. The bird life was incredible, as were the lovely boab trees that were scattered around. This is where Jackson collected dried up boab nuts and ground the seed into a powder before, adding some water to make 'glue'.

Concentrating on the job!

Proudly displaying off the tools he used to make his bush glue.