Kakadu - crocodiles, waterfalls and Aboriginal art.

Kakadu covers 20,000 square kilometre and is on the UNESCO World Heritage List for its natural and cultural value. The area has been inhabited by Aboriginal people continuously for over 50,000 and there are still many residing and working in the park, caring for the land and sharing their culture. We were lucky enough to participate in an indigenous art lesson on our second day in the park. The kids got to make their own ochre paint using the traditional rocks and charcoal and, after watching some local elders paint, have a turn at a painting for themselves. They really enjoyed it and we were given one of the red ochre rocks to make our own paint at home. 

In our 5 nights at Kakadu we managed to see most of the major sites and enjoy heaps of swimming in the lovely waterfalls and plunge pools. We filled our days doing the following:

- seeing the large array of rock art at Ubirr

- walking along the Yellow Waters billabong spotting birds.

- doing an early morning drive out to Jim Jim Falls where we did the hour hike to swim in the plunge pool at the base of the steep escarpment.

- hiking to the Budjmi lookout to take in views of the escarpment.

- taking a sunset cruise along the South Alligator River and within the Yellow Waters Billabong. We saw heaps of crocodiles and wetlands birds and watched a delightful sunset.

- staying two nights at the Maguk Falls campground where we met a lovely family from Darwin.

- spending two fun filled days at Maguk Falls, frolicking in the cool waters, jumping into the deep rock pools and exploring the many pools at the top of the falls.

- driving the corrugated, dusty 40km long road to Gunlom Falls, then doing the steep climb to the top of the falls only to be very underwhelmed after our magic time at the more beautiful and less touristy Maguk Falls. We only swam in the plunge pool at the bottom of the falls, which was nice.

- following instructions given to us by a friendly ranger and finding a secret local swimming hole and small waterfall. It was a great way to end our 5 nights in Kakadu.

Some culture, a lot of nature, plenty of fun and relaxation and wonderfully warm weather, a perfect finale for our trip.

Some exceptionally preserved rock art at Ubirr.

After looking at the rock art we climbed to take in the view of the surrounding floodplains.

Snap Snap - next to the billabong where we camped on the first night.

 Some local elders showing us two different styles of art.

 The kids watched intensely before trying their own

 Jackson using a rock to grind the ochre paint.

Emilia and Jackson both making paint before doing their own 'art' pieces.

Walking into Jim Jim Falls, the kids did a great job scaling the large rocks.

Daniel dwarfed by them massive rocky escarpment and the falls.

I am laying on a rock on the left of the falls - can you spot me?

This flat rock was perfect to lay on and really take in the 150m high cliffs.

Thumbs down! The road to Twin Falls was still closed due to a flash flood in May.

On Yellow Waters Billabong - the egret stood incredibly still until the crocodile had swum past.

A golden bellied tree snake - only slightly poisonous.

The bird life along the South Alligator River was exceptional - see the Jabiru (or black necked stork to be technical) to the left.

Another boat cruising down the river.

We loved our sunset cruise.

On the top of Maguk Falls - a series of deep, crystal clear rock pools.

Emilia loved jumping into the pools (where we spent two lovely afternoons).

Maguk Falls through the Pandanus palms.

Maguk Falls - we spent most of our time up the top but had a lovely swim in this pool.

The water behind this sign was such a vivid shade of green, it looked so inviting but alas too risky (Emilia is doing her version of a frown as she wanted to swim here).

The series of deep rock pools on the top of Maguk Falls.

Emilia and I doing a jump together.

Daniel showing us how a jump is really done (the kids were very impressed!).

Instead of jumping Jackson decided to slide down a small waterfall.

The kids with the friends they made at Maguk camp area - Nissa and Odin. Their parents were lovely as well and we enjoyed their company.

The rock pools on the top of Gunlom Falls, the view was impressive but the pools were a bit stagnant so we decided not to swim (we had a lovely swim in the plunge pool down the bottom of the falls instead).

As close to the edge of the falls as I would let them go.

A lovely ranger told us about this hidden waterfall, a popular place with local mobs, it was certainly a gem and a great place to enjoy a swim without hordes of tourists.

It was a great way to end our time in Kakadu.

How could you not smile in a place to lovely.

The 'bridge' over and back proved a challenge for little feet though!

'Wicked' Jumping Crocs

After witnessing the some huge jumps from the first crocodile we saw, Jackson couldn't talk from excitement. When he finally regained his breath he called out in an excited voice 'that was wicked!' much to the amusement of our fellow passages. Emilia couldn't stop worrying and did not want to get anywhere near the edge of the boat whilst we had to keep asking Jackson to get his hands inside the boat. Emilia enjoyed seeing them but still didn't trust us when we said the crocs couldn't get in the boat. We saw about 8 different crocodiles and they all displayed impressive jumps for us but by far the most impressive, awe inspiring and scary crocodile was Brutus. Brutus is a 5 metre plus,old male croc who has fought for his territory so often that he now has no teeth left and is covered in battle scars. He was huge. As he swam towards the boat there was a collective gasp as we all took in his length and girth. Being so big he couldn't jump as high as the other crocs but when he did a jump right next to the boat and landed with so much force water splashed in the boat, we were certainly satisfied that we had been close enough to this dangerous creature. It was amazing seeing estuarine crocodiles up so close (from the safety of the boat) and we now have a real concept of their power as hunters (and we certainly don't want to see one in the wild- though Jackson may disagree as he was truly fascinated with them).

I've got my eye on you.

The first of many spectacular jumps.

Getting closer.

"That was so WICKED!"

Someone was VERY excited - he did have to be told so many times to keep his hands in the boat as he was just so excited by the spectacle.

Emilia preferred to stay a little back from the edge of the boat.....just in case!

Snap, snap.

It was incredible how far they could propel themselves up.

Jackson getting nice and close to the action.

Big Bad Brutus - a 5m+ old male croc - gave me shivers.

Brutus jumping - 3/4 of him is still underwater - He was massive.

Jackson driving the boat back.

'Dwayne' has his night in Darwin.

We certainly timed it right to be in Darwin for Territory Day, a public holiday to celebrate NT becoming self governing (in 1978). It is also the only day in Australia that anyone over the age of 18 can legally buy as many fireworks as they can afford then let them off wherever they want between 6 and 11pm. It was an experience I will never forget, for the fun and the incredible fireworks and for the 'no rules' attitude that prevailed (so different for us from the southern states).
The following quote in the NT News on Territory Day from the director of Dominator Fireworks sums up Territorians on this day; "catering for the Territory is catering for 'Dwayne'. 'Dwayne is the dad who wants to have a bit of fun.....'Dwayne' wants noise and height - he'll probably down seven cans before he lights them (the fireworks) and there are always plenty of 'Dwaynes' out in full force on Territory Day". Well this was correct. 'Dwaynes' were everywhere and they had obviously spent a lot on fireworks. Fireworks went off constantly from just before 6pm and did not taper off until the early hours of the morning, with some still going off on Saturday morning. Both Daniel and I commented that we felt like we were in a war zone (this was at about midnight when we had been woken many time by fireworks blasting into the sky close by).
Prior to our sleepless night we'd had a fantastic evening at the free Territory Day event at Mindil Beach. It began with a walk up and down the market trying to decide what food to buy, followed by dinner from the food stalls of our choice then down to the beach to watch the sunset. After sunset Kasey Chambers played a great set followed by Cat Empire who rocked the crowd. After the concert the reported 16,000 people who had descended on Mindil Beach were treated to an awesome fireworks display. Emilia loved it even though she was busting for the toilet (we refused to take her and miss the fireworks when we had just asked 10min prior to them starting) and Jackson was enthralled. The both crashed afterwards and were nearly sleep walking by the time we got them back to the car! We saw many more fireworks on the drive home but also loads of spotfires due to errant fireworks. It was a wonderful night and the newspaper on Sunday reported that only a few 'Dwaynes' ended up in hospital with 'serious finger injuries and minor burns'. NT Fire had 230 calls for spotfires, bin fires and a couple of shed fires but apparently this is a great result!

The rest of our time in Darwin was spent:

- Enjoying the resort style pool, splash park and jumping pillow at the caravan park.

- wandering through the city centre, listening to buskers and buying souvenirs. 

- cooling off at the new waterfront. The kids made some friends and spent an enjoyable few hours building sandcastles and swimming with their new mates.

- visiting Mindil Markets again on Sunday, enjoying more great food and a lovely sunset. The kids also enjoyed a performance by the 'drumming monkeys' kids entertainers and they danced and sang while we relaxed. We let the kids buy a souvenir of their choice each. Jackson decided on a bird caller which he broke 10 mins into our journey home causing lots of tears. Clearly not designed for 3 year old boys. I think we will be looking for a new souvenir in Kakadu.

Darwin is a really nice city and we have enjoyed our time here, everyone is so laid back and the climate is lovely. A nice place to spend the last weekend of our trip. Off to Kakadu now for 5 days in the bush before hightailing it home. 

Enjoying a sugar-laden treat before the Territory Day festivities.

Down on Mindil beach with the thousands of others with the sun setting over the water

I think I was possibly the only adult with a tattoo on!

Just a few other enjoying the view too!

Enjoying the music (before she was so tired she had to lay on the rug).

Jackson really got into the music and both Daniel and I took him up the front to see Cat Empire up close (he had his glow wrist band waving like a real raver).

Cat Empire playing - it was an awesome atmosphere.

Whereas Milly couldn't must up enough energy to get off the rug!

Jackson and I with our glowing wristbands courtesy of the NT Gov.

The fireworks went for about 20 minutes and were some of the best I have seen for a long time.

A fireworks spectacular.

Honey chicken skewers on Mindil Beach watching the sunset.

Gotta love a sunset picnic.

There were a few fires burning (probably from errant fireworks) that created a smoke haze which made for a lovely sunset.

A bit of sibling love - cuddles in the sunset.